3M sandpaper

[Greg Newell]

Mark,
    Where do you get these little Abralon wonders?

Greg

bases-loaded@juno.com wrote:

> HI Terry -
>
> Any place where one grit's scratch pattern did not get completely
> replaced by the succeeding grit's pattern, will show up as a slightly
> hazy spot in your rubbed out topcoat.  In other words, when you finished
> with the 800, there may have some 400 scratches that didn't get replaced
> by the finer 600 grit, and the 800 didn't completely remove them either.
> That would be my best guess, although there are other possibilities, of
> course.
>
> I use a similar method of 400, then 600, but I only go to 800 if it as a
> filled pore satin finish.  Otherwise, I go from 600 to the gray
> scotchbrite, and usually finish up with 4/0 wool.  I use both the
> scotchbrite and the wool with some rubbing lubricant (wool lube, wool
> wax, Murphy's Oil Soap, etc).  I think it helps produce a more even
> sheen, and a slightly higher one than using them dry.  Finishing with the
> gray pad is certainly fine, but will be slightly flatter in appearance
> than moving up to 4/0 wool.
>
> As far as fixing your milky spot, you will have to go back to the grit
> required to bring that section back up, then to the successively finer
> grits and to the gray pad to match the sheen that you have established in
> the surrounding area.
>
> I am more and more finding myself using the Abralon pads in the rub-out
> phase.  They are circular pads meant for a random orbit sander, and in
> fact I do sometimes use them that way, esp. to level the big lid.  They
> come in grits of 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000  (pretty sure).  I have mostly
> been using them by hand on a flat chunk of wood as a final pass to
> produce an extremely even scratch pattern.  They are pretty amazing in
> that you just rinse them out and use them over and over again.  I have
> literally rubbed out the last two grands with one pad!
>
> There's something new around every corner.
>
> Mark Potter
> bases-loaded@juno.com
>
> On Wed, 16 May 2001 08:26:20 -0400 "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> writes:
> > Hi Mark. My first PSL piano - after a lot of sanding orange peel -
> > has
> > turned out quite nice. One question regarding the final rub-down for
> > a satin
> > finish. I sanded through with 400 grit fre-cut gold, followed by
> > 600, and
> > then 800 grit. Then I rubbed it down with the medium (gray - 400
> > grit type)
> > 3M Scotch-Bright pad. Most of it looks real good, but some areas
> > (maybe
> > where I rubbed a little harder) have a bit of a milky appearance. It
> > is
> > definately not the clear finish that is milky - it was very clear
> > before
> > sanding - but rather a bit of a milky haze apparently from the final
> > rub-out
> > with the Scotch-Bright pad. Any ideas how to fix? How do you do your
> > final
> > satin rub-outs on the Oxford PSL?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <bases-loaded@juno.com>
> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:13 AM
> > Subject: Re: 3M sandpaper
> >
> >
> > Hi Greg -
> >
> > I have used the 216U paper you refer to exclusively for the last 4
> > pianos
> > I have refinished, and I find it to easily be the best paper I have
> > ever
> > used.  I also have used Oxford's Premium Spray Lacquer on many
> > occasions
> > and have not had the trouble that you experienced.  I have found
> > that it
> > can be sanded safely, although somewhat gently, after a couple hours
> > with
> > no problem whatsoever.  Rubbing out after the final coats, though,
> > is
> > another matter.   At least a week is preferred, and two is even
> > better,
> > IMHO.
> >
> > I can only surmise that either:
> >
> > 1. the coat you applied was extremely heavy, in less than ideal
> > conditions, and still had a soft belly after 24 hours;
> > 2.  There was a contaminant left on the board that didn't allow the
> > PSL
> > to dry properly;
> > 3.  You are pushing down way too hard when sanding.
> >
> > It is a good idea when sanding finishes between coats with dry paper
> > to
> > keep a piece of T-shirt handy to wipe off any accumulation on the
> > paper
> > every so often.  It will flake right off and prevent any build-up
> > that
> > will compromise your paper's ability to provide a good, even scratch
> > pattern.  For the same reasons, wiping off the surface you are
> > sanding of
> > accumulated sanding dust is also beneficial.
> >
> > Mark Potter
> > bases-loaded@juno.com
> >
> > On Wed, 16 May 2001 00:28:36 -0400 Greg Newell
> > <gnewell@ameritech.net>
> > writes:
> > > Dear Lists,
> > >     Not too terribly recently I read of the benefits of 3M's
> > fre-cut
> > > gold sand paper. I recently bought some from Jeff Jewitt who told
> > me
> > > to
> > > use it between coats of Oxford Premium spray lacquer. I found that
> > > it
> > > began to remove some material and that material then balled up and
> > > began
> > > to cut grooves in my new soundboard finish! YIKES! I waited at
> > least
> > > 24
> > > hrs before sanding between coats. Should i have waited longer? Is
> > > there
> > > a better way to use this highly acclaimed product? Are there
> > > different
> > > uses for this paper rather than between coats? I assume that it is
> > > used
> > > dry as it is a paper backing. Is that right? All was saved with a
> > > scotchbrite pad and some careful rubbing. I applied the decal and
> > am
> > > now
> > > ready at my next opportunity to spray over it. So far it looks
> > > great!
> > >
> > > Greg
> > > --
> > > Greg Newell
> > > Greg's Piano Forté
> > > 12970 Harlon Ave.
> > > Lakewood, Ohio 44107
> > > 216-226-3791
> > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >

--
Greg Newell
Greg's Piano Forté
12970 Harlon Ave.
Lakewood, Ohio 44107
216-226-3791
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net