3M sandpaper

[bases-loaded@juno.com]

On Wed, 16 May 2001 20:30:49 -0400 Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net>
writes:
> Mark,
>     Where do you get these little Abralon wonders?
> 
> Greg

Greg -

I got mine at Supergrit.  1-800-822-4003, or www.supergrit.com

I believe Jeff Jewitt was talking about carrying them, too, and since he
is in your neck of the woods, you might check with him.

Mark Potter
bases-loaded@juno.com

> 
> bases-loaded@juno.com wrote:
> 
> > HI Terry -
> >
> > Any place where one grit's scratch pattern did not get completely
> > replaced by the succeeding grit's pattern, will show up as a 
> slightly
> > hazy spot in your rubbed out topcoat.  In other words, when you 
> finished
> > with the 800, there may have some 400 scratches that didn't get 
> replaced
> > by the finer 600 grit, and the 800 didn't completely remove them 
> either.
> > That would be my best guess, although there are other 
> possibilities, of
> > course.
> >
> > I use a similar method of 400, then 600, but I only go to 800 if 
> it as a
> > filled pore satin finish.  Otherwise, I go from 600 to the gray
> > scotchbrite, and usually finish up with 4/0 wool.  I use both the
> > scotchbrite and the wool with some rubbing lubricant (wool lube, 
> wool
> > wax, Murphy's Oil Soap, etc).  I think it helps produce a more 
> even
> > sheen, and a slightly higher one than using them dry.  Finishing 
> with the
> > gray pad is certainly fine, but will be slightly flatter in 
> appearance
> > than moving up to 4/0 wool.
> >
> > As far as fixing your milky spot, you will have to go back to the 
> grit
> > required to bring that section back up, then to the successively 
> finer
> > grits and to the gray pad to match the sheen that you have 
> established in
> > the surrounding area.
> >
> > I am more and more finding myself using the Abralon pads in the 
> rub-out
> > phase.  They are circular pads meant for a random orbit sander, 
> and in
> > fact I do sometimes use them that way, esp. to level the big lid.  
> They
> > come in grits of 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000  (pretty sure).  I have 
> mostly
> > been using them by hand on a flat chunk of wood as a final pass to
> > produce an extremely even scratch pattern.  They are pretty 
> amazing in
> > that you just rinse them out and use them over and over again.  I 
> have
> > literally rubbed out the last two grands with one pad!
> >
> > There's something new around every corner.
> >
> > Mark Potter
> > bases-loaded@juno.com
> >
> > On Wed, 16 May 2001 08:26:20 -0400 "Farrell" 
> <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> > writes:
> > > Hi Mark. My first PSL piano - after a lot of sanding orange peel 
> -
> > > has
> > > turned out quite nice. One question regarding the final rub-down 
> for
> > > a satin
> > > finish. I sanded through with 400 grit fre-cut gold, followed by
> > > 600, and
> > > then 800 grit. Then I rubbed it down with the medium (gray - 400
> > > grit type)
> > > 3M Scotch-Bright pad. Most of it looks real good, but some areas
> > > (maybe
> > > where I rubbed a little harder) have a bit of a milky 
> appearance. It
> > > is
> > > definately not the clear finish that is milky - it was very 
> clear
> > > before
> > > sanding - but rather a bit of a milky haze apparently from the 
> final
> > > rub-out
> > > with the Scotch-Bright pad. Any ideas how to fix? How do you do 
> your
> > > final
> > > satin rub-outs on the Oxford PSL?
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <bases-loaded@juno.com>
> > > To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:13 AM
> > > Subject: Re: 3M sandpaper
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Greg -
> > >
> > > I have used the 216U paper you refer to exclusively for the last 
> 4
> > > pianos
> > > I have refinished, and I find it to easily be the best paper I 
> have
> > > ever
> > > used.  I also have used Oxford's Premium Spray Lacquer on many
> > > occasions
> > > and have not had the trouble that you experienced.  I have found
> > > that it
> > > can be sanded safely, although somewhat gently, after a couple 
> hours
> > > with
> > > no problem whatsoever.  Rubbing out after the final coats, 
> though,
> > > is
> > > another matter.   At least a week is preferred, and two is even
> > > better,
> > > IMHO.
> > >
> > > I can only surmise that either:
> > >
> > > 1. the coat you applied was extremely heavy, in less than ideal
> > > conditions, and still had a soft belly after 24 hours;
> > > 2.  There was a contaminant left on the board that didn't allow 
> the
> > > PSL
> > > to dry properly;
> > > 3.  You are pushing down way too hard when sanding.
> > >
> > > It is a good idea when sanding finishes between coats with dry 
> paper
> > > to
> > > keep a piece of T-shirt handy to wipe off any accumulation on 
> the
> > > paper
> > > every so often.  It will flake right off and prevent any 
> build-up
> > > that
> > > will compromise your paper's ability to provide a good, even 
> scratch
> > > pattern.  For the same reasons, wiping off the surface you are
> > > sanding of
> > > accumulated sanding dust is also beneficial.
> > >
> > > Mark Potter
> > > bases-loaded@juno.com
> > >
> > > On Wed, 16 May 2001 00:28:36 -0400 Greg Newell
> > > <gnewell@ameritech.net>
> > > writes:
> > > > Dear Lists,
> > > >     Not too terribly recently I read of the benefits of 3M's
> > > fre-cut
> > > > gold sand paper. I recently bought some from Jeff Jewitt who 
> told
> > > me
> > > > to
> > > > use it between coats of Oxford Premium spray lacquer. I found 
> that
> > > > it
> > > > began to remove some material and that material then balled up 
> and
> > > > began
> > > > to cut grooves in my new soundboard finish! YIKES! I waited at
> > > least
> > > > 24
> > > > hrs before sanding between coats. Should i have waited longer? 
> Is
> > > > there
> > > > a better way to use this highly acclaimed product? Are there
> > > > different
> > > > uses for this paper rather than between coats? I assume that 
> it is
> > > > used
> > > > dry as it is a paper backing. Is that right? All was saved 
> with a
> > > > scotchbrite pad and some careful rubbing. I applied the decal 
> and
> > > am
> > > > now
> > > > ready at my next opportunity to spray over it. So far it looks
> > > > great!
> > > >
> > > > Greg
> > > > --
> > > > Greg Newell
> > > > Greg's Piano Forté
> > > > 12970 Harlon Ave.
> > > > Lakewood, Ohio 44107
> > > > 216-226-3791
> > > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> 
> --
> Greg Newell
> Greg's Piano Forté
> 12970 Harlon Ave.
> Lakewood, Ohio 44107
> 216-226-3791
> mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> 
> 
>