---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you wrote: >For most thicknessing I use a big table saw, or Sears rotary planer in a >radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has carbide cutters, while >the radial saw is faster, more powerful and can stand sideways forces >much better than most drill presses (and 400m doesn't mean 200...). Most >RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've encountered. > >Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs, anticipating tear out I >grind an angle so that the low edge protrudes more. Increasing clearance >by tilting the drill table very slightly also seems to help. Feed slow, >should work fine. > >Adjustable parallels for set up. > > > electric planer > >Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it would work as such, there's so >little surface, and planing cross grain along the keyboard sounds to >invite disaster. >Clark What I don't like about using circular saw blades is the kerf it leaves at the end of the plastic. A router bit or rotary planer can be set to remove only enough material for the new keytop to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job. Regards, Jon Page, piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net http://www.stanwoodpiano.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/27/3c/a9/b8/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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