Ron, I didn't mean for it to take this long to reply but, THANKS! This is good info to ponder for a while. I'm getting much closer now that I have what I consider to be an adequate approach to jointing. I've never had any luck with the short bed jointers I've owned and I made a long aluminum channel to use with the router but that is a little too bulky to use frequently. I've just purchased a Jointech system for table saw and router and will use that to joint the Sitka pieces. Once done it'll go in the clamps and then I have to get really serious about what I wish to do for ribs. I think I will buy a little extra time though while I play with the new toy. I have to get used to using it before I do something important with it, right? Greg Ron Nossaman wrote: > >Greetings list members, > > I am in the process of learning how to go about pre-crowning ribs > >for use in a new soundboard installation. I have seen at least one jig > >which seems to cut the rib with the crown directly in the center of the > >rib which will not necessarily be under the bridge. As I understand it > >it makes the most sense, at least to me, to have the thickest part of > >the rib directly under the bridge for the maximum support. Am I correct > >in assuming (Ooo there's that word again) that a different degree of > >taper exists from one side of the bridge to the rim than the other? Am > >I correct in noting that the rib thickness at 3 inches from the bridge > >on either side would not necessarily be the same? If this is the case > >(on a middle rib for examples sake) then how does one go about laying > >out an even taper but with different degrees on either side? Does any of > >this make any sense at all? Am I even on the right track? > > > >-- > >Greg Newell > > Greg, > Good observation. Here are a few more for you. With a constant radius > crown, the high point will always be in the center of the rib because the > crown is an arc segment. A crown curve based on a parabola or catenary > curve will let you put the high part of the crown anywhere you want it, if > you want to go to the trouble. I'm not sure it's necessary. The old > compression crowned boards had a crown that was whatever the panel > expansion happened to bend the rib into, and was anything but constant > radius through the feathered ends of the ribs, or from rib to rib for that > matter. Some of them sound pretty good. In a rib crowned board, you can > build the crown and load handling characteristics you want. Looking at a > rib like a beam under concentrated load(s), you can move the load center > somewhere other than the center of the beam with the feathering, which > doesn't have to be symmetrical. The best way to see how different > feathering configurations and proportions work is to make up some small > scale model ribs out of scrap pine or something, try different feathering > approaches under different loading points on the rib, and observe the way > they bend under load at that point. Go with the approach that produces the > deflection action you think you want, and remember anything else > interesting you discover along the way for future prospecting potential. > The rib scale will be different on every model piano, so there will always > be a series of decisions to be made in the process. > > Ron N -- Greg Newell mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
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