getting punch(y)ings

[Jeannie Grassi]

Hi David,
May I use this for TT&T?  And.....is it possible to photograph or draw what you are talking about in the first paragraph.  Even if the photo isn't that great, we can do a good illustration from it.

Thanks,
jeannie

Jeannie Grassi, RPT
Associate Editor, Piano Technicians Journal
mailto:jgrassi@silverlink.net 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
Of David Love
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 10:22 PM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: getting punch(y)ings


One final thought on this.  If you are concerned about the precariousness of
the stick prop, cut a "V" shape in the top to cradle the key frame and
secure the prop to a flat base, maybe 8" x 8".  If you are really nervous,
make two of them.  Keep them at the ends of the action so that when you lift
the action to place the punchings you can slide them into place at both
ends.

Steinway accelerated action bearings can also be done with the stack on
method but you have to use a bent tool to lift them.  I use a spring hook
and it works fine.  It's a bit tricky to not let them spin around, but it
does work.

Another tip, when trying to determine what punching to place under the key,
glue two of each of the different size punchings together and keep them as
guides.  When you lay the straight edge, test the gap by sliding these
double punchings into the gap.  Since a punching placed halfway back at the
balance rail will raise the key approximately twice its thickness, this
gives you a very quick way to determine what should go under there.  So if
the space between the leveling stick and the top of the key will accommodate
two blue punchings exactly, put one under the balance rail and that will get
you very close.  You can usually do the leveling job in two passes.  I don't
know about anyone else, but key leveling is right up there with my favorite
activities next to polishing key pins and cleaning the bathroom.

David Love


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Nereson" <dnereson@dimensional.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: February 21, 2002 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: getting punch(y)ings


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Bigeartb@AOL.COM>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:34 PM
> Subject: Re: getting punch(y)ings
>
>
> > Wilem:
> > I bought a sponge in a glass container in order to keep my finger
> damp....no
> > licking. But while we're on this subject, some technicians evidently
level
> > the keys by cutting a "V" in the punchings so they can insert them
without
> > removing the keys. Do you know anything about this technique? Is is
> > acceptable practice?
> >
> > Tommy Black
> > Decatur, Ala.
>
>     I'm not Wilem, but cutting a 'V', or just a radial cut straight across
> one side of the punching, is for when you tip a grand action up on the
edge
> of the back rail -- then keys can be lifted up and punchings inserted from
> underneath.  Kenzo Utsunomiya at Yamaha's Little Red Schoolhouse uses this
> method.  He makes chalk marks first on the front rail telling him what
size
> punchings he needs to insert.  I will use it only for a few keys, to avoid
> unscrewing the stack.  Otherwise, I think it's a big hassle.  You of
course
> have to remove the keystop rail for any method of key leveling.  But with
> this method of standing the action up on its back edge,  you also have to
> watch that the drop screws don't gouge the stretcher, and drape something
> over it if they're going to.   With some grand actions, the keys extend
back
> farther than the back rail, so when you tip it up on edge, the keys want
to
> ride up on their pins, the action isn't in a stable position, and it's
quite
> difficult to lift keys and insert punchings.  It's difficult, no matter
what
> type of action.  If the key is over part of the keyframe (the slats that
> span between the balance and front rails), it's just hell to get the
> tweezers in there at the right angle and get the cut punching to go on to
> the pin -- a 'V' does work better than just a plain cut, though.  You're
> supposed to face right and let the action lean against your left hip,
> leaving both hands free for manipulating keys and punchings.  But if you
> have to do some keys way down in the first octave, you have to face left
and
> preferably be left-handed.   It can be done, with the right attitude, as
> David Love describes.  The stick propping up the action sounds precarious
to
> me.  I would think the weight of the action would tip the bench over.  I
> dunno -- to me it's much easier to take the
> stack off and use the weights on the backchecks (unless it's just a few
> keys).        --David Nereson, RPT, Denver
> >
>
>
>