Yamaha Upright hammer flanges( kind of long)

[Isaac OLEG]

Whoa !

This is da very good trick !

Thanks a lot, Tom Driscoll !

Will let you know soon as it turns, as one of them is in sight (sight!)

Regards.

Isaac OLEG

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]De la part
> de Tom Driscoll
> Envoye : jeudi 16 mai 2002 23:45
> A : pianotech@ptg.org
> Objet : RE: Yamaha Upright hammer flanges( kind of long)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> List,
> 
> I am about to make a bid on a job to replace all the hammer flanges in a
> 
> Yamaha P-22 studio upright(the threads are breaking at a prodigious
> rate, as 
> per a previous post...).  My "G" works labor guide suggests that this
> might 
> take me 5 hours.  Has anybody done this?  I think that Joe's estimate is
> 
> reasonable, giving a bit less than 4 minutes per flange, but I wonder if
> 
> anybody out there has done this job before?
> 
> Thanks for any input!
> 
> Dave Stahl
> 
> Dave,
> 	I've done many of these jobs and have posted a method for
> replacement of the cords in the past. With input from a tech in Japan,
> (Sorry, but his name escapes me now) I refined my approach so at the
> risk of some redundancy here goes. First, we are assuming that the
> pinning is solid, the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers are not
> worn past reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years old and
> if not in a school situation, I've found them to meet these criteria.
> 	 I first tighten all screws and space hammers. Reshape hammers
> and blow out all debris. Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in
> this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. Next Loosen the
> butt plate screws and hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from the
> bridle straps without disconnecting them from the bridle wire.(That was
> the tip from our Japanese friend ) Now the flanges are exposed for
> removing and replacing the cords. I put a small amount of ca glue
> solvent on the slots and then immediately clean out the old cord and
> slot with the chisel point of a small spade drill bit.( By hand -not
> chucked in the drill!)  You may have to reapply the solvent as you go
> and I suspect acetone is the the operative chemical at work here. 
> 	Now for the cords. If this is not a gray market piano you can
> get the cord from Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not
> available wrap some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff ) around an old #88
> key top and slice down the middle. Either way, but the idea is to get 88
> cords cut to exact length. Now glue one side in the slot -I use
> titebond- a small amount -and press the cord in the slot with a small
> screw driver lining up the end of the cord with the line in the flange.
> By the time you get to the end the glue will be set. Go back and glue
> the other side. Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the springs in
> the cords, reinstall the rest rail and your done . Two hours max and
> less with practice.  
> 	The advantage over replacing the flanges is not only time, but
> it is difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in the way,
> your spacing will not change and the old flanges are already
> dimensionally more stable @ the screw and will not need retightening as
> soon. 
> 	Tell me this is a worn action with loose pinning and flange
> replacement is the best way. Also if this is an action without butt
> plates and the flange is pinned to the butt in my opinion it's less
> clear which method is best. I've done about quite a few+ of these and
> almost all have the butt plate style.  
> 	` Tom Driscoll
> 
>