Building keys

[A440A@aol.com]

 Greetings, 
   Inre my posting on building up keys that have been "fingernail eroded",  I 
was asked for my procedure by two techs in private emails.  So, assuming 
others might have some curiousity,  here is what I do: 
 
1.  number the keys!  ( You only have to remove one un-numbered set and mix 
them up to learn this, but I am hoping my wasted time years ago will help 
others avoid my dumb mistake) 

2.  Segregate the sharps, they will be done separately. 

3.  using coarse (80 grit) sandpaper, make sure the exposed wood is clean.  
Heavy use over the years will have deposited a layer of greasy grime on the 
wood and you want good adhesion for the epoxy. 

4.  Lay all the natural keys out, sideways and propped up so that they are 
level or in the case of the sharps, slightly inclined back towards the distal 
end. The sides of the keys are facing up.   
These should be laid out where they can be left undisturbed for at least 5 
hours or more, (I do this as the last work of the day and just let them sit 
overnight).  You might want to lay down newspapers under the work.

5.   Mix, as per instructions, West System 105 Resin and 206 Hardener.  Add 
enough 410 Microlite fairing stuff to make the mix noticeably thicker, but 
still able to fluid. This is an experience-gained step, but roughly, with one 
squirt each from the mini-pumps, you will need at least several tablespoons of the 
microlite.  This not only gives a tan look to the mix, but it makes it closer 
to the density of the wood and makes it much easier to sand down.  It is 
still harder than the key,though.

6.  I use a popsicle stick to "ladle" a small amount of the epoxy mix into 
the damaged portion of the key, making sure that there is just enough to 
protrude above the level of the sides.  The fronts will usually not be gone on the 
naturals, so there is, effectively, a "well" that you are filling.  It is not 
uncommon for the epoxy mix to take a minute or two to settle into the cavity, so 
recheck when all are done that you haven't had some go below level of the 
key, and top them off, if necessary.  

7.  Add about 1/2 teaspoon of black aniline dye to the remaining mix and do 
the sharps. 
8.  let sit overnight
9.  flip those over that need both sides filled and repeat.  
 
On heavily damaged sharp keys, it is sometimes not possible to fill the 
groove so that the very front of the sharps comes up to level.  In this case, you 
can either make temporary "dams" with wax paper, or just let the stuff cure and 
then add more epoxy the next day. 

   It isn't that hard to file the lumps back down even with the key sides if 
you don't use too much.  Just be careful not to damage the keytops when you do 
this.  
   Be really careful with plastic keys, as this WEst system loves to adhere 
to plastic and you will have a chore to get them clean.  I once used tape to 
cover them,but now have learned to be methodical and careful enough to avoid 
spills.  

Regards, 
 
Ed Foote RPT 
http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html
www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
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