(no subject) - pitch correcting.

[Phil Bondi]

Farrell wrote:

>Gee, over 1,000 resulting posts for "deaf" or "blind" tuning in the
>archives. I've spent a half-hour so far and got nothing. Maybe just a hint?
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I'll try to help..although my nomenclature may need some work..

With a piano that hasn't been tuned since(insert your own analogy), go 
to C5 and turn the R unison pins of all the notes to C8. This is _after_ 
you get a feel if the piano/pins/wire can handle it..you don't listen to 
the note..you're just turning tuning pins. I was shown this trick a long 
time ago by Ken Burton here on Pianotech. I shared it with mentors LB 
Crabb and John Blick. They thought it was a great idea..then I sat in a 
Mr. Sadigursky(sp) class at one convention. His class was on pitch 
correction, and he was doing the same thing. Please note that you don't 
have to crank the tuning pins..the purpose of this is to get the ball 
rolling as far as where the pins need to be when you're finished. One or 
two 'clicks' of the pins(if you're lucky to have those clicks) is all 
you need.

I have gone one step further(i believe..i don't recall Mr. Sadigursky 
doing this, but I could be wrong)..I now go to the L unison tuning pins 
also and just slightly move the pins. I do not move them as far as the R 
unisons..no where near as far..approx. 1/2 as far as the R unisons.

What happens, I believe, is there is increased tension at that part of 
the plate, or, you are 'prepping' the plate. If you're using a Visual 
Aide to tune/pitch raise and you're tuning/raising from the bass up 
tuning unisons as you go, by the time you get to C5, the entire plate 
tension has started to equalize, and the notes from C5 up will be more 
stable the first time around. This method also works for aural tuners 
who strip-mute the entire instrument and tune the middle strings first. 
I've done it both ways, visually as well as aurally with the same 
results: The treble stays much more stable once you get there and get it 
in tune.

When I pitch-raise using a visual aide(100% of the time now..it's the 
right tool for the job), I measure where A4 is at..let's say it's -60c. 
I use the SATll, so after I have that measurement, I get my FAC 
numbers..keeping in mind the the piano is -60c. Once the FAC's are 
obtained, I start in the bass, using NO offset..yet. Once I get to the 
last single wound string note, THEN I offset where THAT note is , and 
use that until I get to the bass/tenor break where I offset again.

I personally do not like pulling bass wire too far above its designated 
area, and this method has served me well since I was shown this 
trick/method.

As you're working your way up the piano, pay attention to how far from 
pitch the notes are that you're tuning. I find myself, using this method 
of 'prepping the plate', offsetting much less as I work my way up the 
piano. After the bass/tenor break, I may offset one more time around C4 
to G4, depending on how flat the instrument is and how the instrument 
'feels' to me..and that's as many times as I offset doing a pitch 
raise..that's it.

I am of the opinion that there is no sure fire way to get a piano from 
-60c to on pitch and stable in one pass..BUT..there are methods to get 
it to pitch with less work AFTER the first pass. The method I have 
described(hopefully adequetely) has been my modus operendus since Ken 
Burton explained it to me here, and I had verification from the Mentors 
and Mr. Sadigursky's demonstration.

There's no sure-fire way to get it done right during the first 
pass..let's face it..it's been HOW LONG? since it's been tuned, and in 1 
hr. you're gonna play Superman/woman and get this instrument at pich AND 
stable? I don't think so, but the method I have described, with 
practice/experience, will, in my opinion, make the task of pitch 
correction much less strenuous and maybe, just maybe, more profitable as 
you get faster doing it.

Your mileage won't vary too much,

Phil Bondi(Fl)

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