This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment Hi Sarah, Either way router or table saw will require clamping/jigging if the block is only 1" x 2" It would be easier to accomplish if the piece were longer; allowing you to cut the slot, then slice off smaller pieces. You'll likely have to remove the blade guard to do this. I would use the table saw and some quality stack dado blades. If you opt for starting with a longer piece of stock, you can do the following: Assuming the fence is to the 'west' of the blades, you could make two L shaped push-blocks that would push in a 'southwesterly' direction on the upper right corner of the piece to be cut, parallel with the fence. Make the push blocks 12" long, so you can use one in each hand, and paw your way through the cut, moving one, holding the other, always keeping pressure on the piece. At the end of the cut, your push-down should extend past the stock piece to insure a uniform slot. Your body would be at the left (west) side of the table saw, feet firmly planted, knees bent, mind clear, attitude humble and vigilant, center of gravity NEVER over the blades. (Harder to type/describe, but hopefully easy to picture) If you must do it with 1"x2" blocks, you could construct a jig with an exactly sized slot to accomodate your block. I would make it out of 5/8" plywood to hold the North, East, and South sides of the block against the fence. Then, I would make a piece that sits on top of the block, rides against the fence, and is screwed down tight to keep the block against the table saw surface. Attached pdf file shows the idea. Pass the whole thing over the blades as above, and your larger piece now has the same slot. Use it over and over, as long as your blocks are the same size. It might be just as easy to cut a custom slot into a board, rather than build around your 1x2 block. Move slowly, and take little bites. Clean and polish the table saw surface so everything glides like butter. Never lose respect for that blade. Never stand directly behind the blade, kicked back wood is like shrapnel. I have a hole in the back wall of my shop made by such a projectile. Once the cut is done and power is off, stand still and stare at the blade until it stops completely. Best regards, Brad Smith, RPT www.smithpiano.com -----Original Message----- From: Sarah Fox [mailto:sarah@graphic-fusion.com] Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 10:25 AM To: staff@smithpiano.com; Pianotech Subject: Re: Table saw recommendations? Hi Brad, Excellent advice! Too bad I can't even begin to afford the saws you've suggested. :-( I might upgrade with aftermarket add-ons later, if needs arise. Your emphasis on jigs leads me to post a question to you (or to anyone else who cares to comment): I have in mind a jig for cutting a 5/16" wide x ~3/8" deep rectangular slot through the length of a 1x2 piece of poplar stock. I have a choice of doing it with a jig on a router (slowly, with lots of heat and noise) or doing three passes through a jig on the table saw. I've never used a table saw to cut grooves. Am I asking for trouble with regard to kickback? I'm thinking that I'll avoid trouble by having a simple jig that holds the workpiece securely against the table and fence (while also covering the blade). However I do this, I want to do it the best way, because I'll (hopefully) be cutting LOTS of stock this way. Thanks! Peace, Sarah ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brad Smith" <staff@smithpiano.com> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 2:19 AM Subject: RE: Table saw recommendations? > Hi Sarah, > My two cents... or, my $1400... > I went through the process a few months back after having destroyed > my direct-drive table saw. > I chose Delta Unisaw, with extension table and mobile base for same. > The mobile base was 'free' with a coupon included in the purchase. > http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=4737 > Delta has deals like this currently for all the X5 tools. It is 3HP, cuts > thru the maple like butter. You can go to 5HP, if your needs require. > Researching, I found so much good news about the Biesmeyer fence, > that I added it to my 'must have' criteria. > http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=139&p=801 > The fence makes the cuts jointer quality, EXACTLY where you want > them. The blade tilts to the left. I think it would accommodate a 12" > blade, not sure, check first. > Had to rewire the shop for 220V, but once you get to the larger saws, > most require it. I just got a nice dado set from Home Depot. > Diablo Stack Dado Saw Blade Set Model DD208 > > It's more saw than I currently need, but I plan to move into more > woodworking stuff as I gracefully age. > My new motto is: "Buy it right, and buy it once". > Great tools pay for themselves, and you'll rarely regret getting the > 'good stuff'. > >>From the videos below, I learned about making customized throat > plates for the various dado cuts; general woodworking and machine safety. > It's amazing what can be done with home made jigs and post-it note > shims. Mastering Woodworking Machines (Taunton Press) Mark > Duginske, Andrew Schultz > http://www.cambiumbooks.com/books/woodworking_machines/0-942391-98-5/ > Mark Duginske has some good stuff on using the bandsaw for tenons, > with homemade fence, and paper shims to 'dial in' the thickness. He > does some dovetail joinery this way, that is really excellent. > DVD Mastering Your Table Saw (Taunton Press) Kelly Mehler > http://www.cambiumbooks.com/books/video-and-dvd/B0001KNH4K/ > Great stuff on jigs, sliding miter box, cross cutting, safety, large piece > work, odd shape work in sliding jigs, etc. He makes some jigs using > plexiglass, which function as miter box, and blade guard. > After viewing these, I'm more skeptical about buying expensive add-on > gadgets. (That's saying a lot, since I am a serious tool junkie). To take > advantage of a full size cabinet saw and extension table, you definitely > need shop space. I'm using an old lightweight door as a table top for > the saw, when not in use. Then, I have positions and wall jigs to move > the table top for use as outfeed support. I actually enjoy the challenge > of making a small shop space function. > Dust collection gets most of it conveniently through the port in back of > the > saw. Adding dust collection above the blade is my next step. In the Kelly > Mehler video, he uses a blade guard that extends out over the blade, for > cuts that require removal of the original guard. > Just for fun, you might also check out: http://www.sawstop.com/ > They have an ingenius system that would save your fingers, should you > momentarily lose focus while cutting. > Another good motto: > "NEVER TAKE YOUR EYES OFF A MOVING BLADE" > Good luck with your purchase! > > Best regards, > Brad Smith, RPT > www.smithpiano.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sarah Fox [mailto:sarah@graphic-fusion.com] > Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 2:38 PM > To: Pianotech > Subject: Table saw recommendations? > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > ---------------------- multipart/mixed attachment A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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