Hi Brad, I agree with you. I was thinking ripping 8 or12 inch wide by 12 foot boards, then slotting and cutting to length. It takes forever to type right now. Feather boards,jigs,measurments,and 'real long arms', or a puller. A large smile to you for your post. Hubert Liverman Tuner/Tech Opelika,Al > Hi Sarah, > Either way router or table saw will require clamping/jigging if the block is > only 1" x 2" > It would be easier to accomplish if the piece were longer; allowing you to > cut the slot, then slice off smaller pieces. > You'll likely have to remove the blade guard to do this. > > I would use the table saw and some quality stack dado blades. > If you opt for starting with a longer piece of stock, you can do the > following: > > Assuming the fence is to the 'west' of the blades, you could make two L > shaped push-blocks that > would push in a 'southwesterly' direction on the upper right corner of the > piece to be cut, parallel with the fence. > Make the push blocks 12" long, so you can use one in each hand, and paw your > way through the cut, > moving one, holding the other, always keeping pressure on the piece. > > At the end of the cut, your push-down should extend past the stock piece to > insure a uniform slot. > Your body would be at the left (west) side of the table saw, > feet firmly planted, knees bent, mind clear, attitude humble and vigilant, > center of gravity NEVER over the blades. > (Harder to type/describe, but hopefully easy to picture) > > If you must do it with 1"x2" blocks, you could construct a jig with an > exactly sized slot to accomodate your block. > I would make it out of 5/8" plywood to hold the North, East, and South sides > of the block against the fence. > Then, I would make a piece that sits on top of the block, rides against the > fence, and is screwed down tight to > keep the block against the table saw surface. Attached pdf file shows the > idea. > > Pass the whole thing over the blades as above, and your larger piece now has > the same slot. > Use it over and over, as long as your blocks are the same size. > > It might be just as easy to cut a custom slot into a board, rather than > build around your 1x2 block. > > Move slowly, and take little bites. > Clean and polish the table saw surface so everything glides like butter. > Never lose respect for that blade. > Never stand directly behind the blade, kicked back wood is like shrapnel. > I have a hole in the back wall of my shop made by such a projectile. > Once the cut is done and power is off, stand still and stare at the blade > until it stops completely. > > > Best regards, > > Brad Smith, RPT > www.smithpiano.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sarah Fox [mailto:sarah@graphic-fusion.com] > Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 10:25 AM > To: staff@smithpiano.com; Pianotech > Subject: Re: Table saw recommendations? > > > Hi Brad, > > Excellent advice! Too bad I can't even begin to afford the saws you've > suggested. :-( I might upgrade with aftermarket add-ons later, if needs > arise. > > Your emphasis on jigs leads me to post a question to you (or to anyone else > who cares to comment): I have in mind a jig for cutting a 5/16" wide x > ~3/8" deep rectangular slot through the length of a 1x2 piece of poplar > stock. I have a choice of doing it with a jig on a router (slowly, with > lots of heat and noise) or doing three passes through a jig on the table > saw. I've never used a table saw to cut grooves. Am I asking for trouble > with regard to kickback? I'm thinking that I'll avoid trouble by having a > simple jig that holds the workpiece securely against the table and fence > (while also covering the blade). However I do this, I want to do it the > best way, because I'll (hopefully) be cutting LOTS of stock this way. > > Thanks! > > Peace, > Sarah > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Brad Smith" <staff@smithpiano.com> > To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 2:19 AM > Subject: RE: Table saw recommendations? > > > > Hi Sarah, > > My two cents... or, my $1400... > > I went through the process a few months back after having destroyed > > my direct-drive table saw. > > I chose Delta Unisaw, with extension table and mobile base for same. > > The mobile base was 'free' with a coupon included in the purchase. > > http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=4737 > > Delta has deals like this currently for all the X5 tools. It is 3HP, cuts > > thru the maple like butter. You can go to 5HP, if your needs require. > > Researching, I found so much good news about the Biesmeyer fence, > > that I added it to my 'must have' criteria. > > http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=139&p=801 > > The fence makes the cuts jointer quality, EXACTLY where you want > > them. The blade tilts to the left. I think it would accommodate a 12" > > blade, not sure, check first. > > Had to rewire the shop for 220V, but once you get to the larger saws, > > most require it. I just got a nice dado set from Home Depot. > > Diablo Stack Dado Saw Blade Set Model DD208 > > > > It's more saw than I currently need, but I plan to move into more > > woodworking stuff as I gracefully age. > > My new motto is: "Buy it right, and buy it once". > > Great tools pay for themselves, and you'll rarely regret getting the > > 'good stuff'. > > > >>From the videos below, I learned about making customized throat > > plates for the various dado cuts; general woodworking and machine safety. > > It's amazing what can be done with home made jigs and post-it note > > shims. Mastering Woodworking Machines (Taunton Press) Mark > > Duginske, Andrew Schultz > > http://www.cambiumbooks.com/books/woodworking_machines/0-942391-98-5/ > > Mark Duginske has some good stuff on using the bandsaw for tenons, > > with homemade fence, and paper shims to 'dial in' the thickness. He > > does some dovetail joinery this way, that is really excellent. > > DVD Mastering Your Table Saw (Taunton Press) Kelly Mehler > > http://www.cambiumbooks.com/books/video-and-dvd/B0001KNH4K/ > > Great stuff on jigs, sliding miter box, cross cutting, safety, large piece > > work, odd shape work in sliding jigs, etc. He makes some jigs using > > plexiglass, which function as miter box, and blade guard. > > After viewing these, I'm more skeptical about buying expensive add-on > > gadgets. (That's saying a lot, since I am a serious tool junkie). To take > > advantage of a full size cabinet saw and extension table, you definitely > > need shop space. I'm using an old lightweight door as a table top for > > the saw, when not in use. Then, I have positions and wall jigs to move > > the table top for use as outfeed support. I actually enjoy the challenge > > of making a small shop space function. > > Dust collection gets most of it conveniently through the port in back of > > the > > saw. Adding dust collection above the blade is my next step. In the Kelly > > Mehler video, he uses a blade guard that extends out over the blade, for > > cuts that require removal of the original guard. > > Just for fun, you might also check out: http://www.sawstop.com/ > > They have an ingenius system that would save your fingers, should you > > momentarily lose focus while cutting. > > Another good motto: > > "NEVER TAKE YOUR EYES OFF A MOVING BLADE" > > Good luck with your purchase! > > > > Best regards, > > Brad Smith, RPT > > www.smithpiano.com > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Sarah Fox [mailto:sarah@graphic-fusion.com] > > Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2005 2:38 PM > > To: Pianotech > > Subject: Table saw recommendations? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
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