Question about blackening sharps

Greg Newell gnewell at ameritech.net
Sat Sep 2 16:17:07 MDT 2006


Jeff,
         A dye is a good way to go but may not be 
as colorfast as a stain. In a separate post to 
Terry I make the point that a Dye has much 
smaller pigment particles and therefor penetrates 
much deeper into the wood. It's also often used 
in toners and the like because of it's ability to 
mix well with the carrier (again, small particles). Hope this helps.

Greg Newell



At 12:02 PM 9/2/2006, you wrote:
>So the best option is to dye or stain the wood?
>I tried Iron Oxide pigment in alcohol and the wood would not take any color.
>I will try a product like this transtint.
>Thanks
>
>Jeff
>On Sep 2, 2006, at 7:42 AM, Farrell wrote:
>
>>Hmmmm, I don't think any confusion originates 
>>on this end (at least on this topic). To quote 
>>directly from the "TransTint Liquid Dye Concentrate Technical Data Sheet"
>>
>><http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/pdf/TransTintTDS%206-2006.pdf>http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/pdf/TransTintTDS%206-2006.pdf 
>>
>>
>>"The dye can be mixed with either water or 
>>alcohol as a bare stain on wood - or added 
>>directly to finishing materials like shellac 
>>and lacquer to make toners or stains." It goes 
>>on to state: "To use TransTints as a stain for 
>>bare wood, stir in the concentrate...."
>>
>>Sooooo, it would seem to me that the product is 
>>both a die and a stain. I suspect it would be 
>>fair to call anything that permanently colors 
>>something else a stain - like Carbernet 
>>Sauvignon is a wine, but can also be a stain (DAMHIK).  :-)
>>
>>Hope that clears the air!
>>
>>Terry Farrell
>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>Terry,
>>>         You might be confusing someone here. 
>>> The product is either die or stain to the 
>>> best of my knowledge, not both. The Transtint 
>>> you speak of is decidedly dye NOT stain. Shoe 
>>> products are also dyer and NOT stain. I hope 
>>> that might be some clarification for Jeff.
>>>
>>>best,
>>>Greg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>At 07:40 AM 9/2/2006, you wrote:
>>>>Lots in the archives on this. Many ways to do 
>>>>it. If you must stain the beautiful natural 
>>>>ebony - use black die stain  -  #6023 Black 
>>>><http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm>http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Or, go to your local shoe dude and get some black shoe stain.
>>>>
>>>>Finish with a clear coat of your choice - I 
>>>>like a nice oil finish - just wipe in on.
>>>>
>>>>Terry Farrell
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>>Hi
>>>>>First time posting here.
>>>>>
>>>>>Does anyone know if there is a standard procedure for blackening sharps.
>>>>>
>>>>>I have a set which had an ugly finish - shiny and wavy gravy.
>>>>>I stripped them and the ebony is quite 
>>>>>"blond" in color - sort of tiger striped.
>>>>>
>>>>>I can't figure out how to get them to take 
>>>>>stain. (wood being so extremely dense).
>>>>>I have attempted to "paint" them with 
>>>>>shellac mixed with iron oxide pigment (very nice black).
>>>>>But I cant get a good surface  without sanding through at the corners.
>>>>>
>>>>>This is all to say - I am clueless.
>>>>>What do the factories do?
>>>>>Any standard tricks for a standard look?
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>>Jeff
>>>Greg Newell
>>>Greg's Piano Forté
>>><mailto:gnewell at ameritech.net>mailto:gnewell at ameritech.net
>>>www.gregspianoforte.com
></blockquote></x-html>

Greg Newell
Greg's Piano Forté
mailto:gnewell at ameritech.net
www.gregspianoforte.com  




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