CA glue and BRIDGE cracks

[Joe And Penny Goss]

Hi Annie,
I do not remove strings. However on an old upright, I will always have the instrument standing. or at least at a 45% on a tipper. I apply the glue at the side of the bridge pin that is next to the speaking length and do not worry if the glue goes to the lower pin.
With grands I use my insulin needle to inject as little glue as possible to do the job. I only treat the speaking length pin
as the looseness of the other does not seem to affect the false beating.
If this treatment does not eliminate the false beats, suspect other things such as kinks in wire, notching, unbraided ends, voodoo`````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
I reccommend seating the strings first with #315 as it may eliminate the need for CA.
Also the faster the beat the less likely it is loose pins. The test with a long screw driver is always a good check to do first.

Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr at srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Annie Grieshop 
  To: Pianotech List 
  Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 7:40 AM
  Subject: RE: CA glue and BRIDGE cracks


  Ah, I was confused when I asked my question about loosening strings, as I was still thinking about bridges, not pinblocks (the previous iteration of this discussion, I believe).  My question actually was meant to relate to the use of CA glue to reset bridge pins.  

  For those who use it:  do you loosen or remove the strings before gluing a bridge?

  All that said, thanks for the clear instructions on gluing pinblocks, Dean.  I've had tremendous good luck with it thus far!

  Annie Grieshop
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