strip muting with sheet metal

[Paul Chick (Earthlink)]

Subject: Re: strip muting with sheet metal

 

Once again; I would suggest using a piece of angled aluminum - my piece is
about 6-7" long, and an inch wide on either side, at a 90 degree angle;
simply lift the dampers with the pedal, slide the aluminum piece in behind
and on top of them, and then with a short ruler of some sort push the strip
down all the way underneath the dampers (which are completely protected from
damage by the aluminum strip

Allen Wright, RPT

 

On 26 Feb 2007, at 00:22, John Formsma wrote:

You probably have a piece of stiff cardboard around the house that you could
cut and use temporarily. I've taken the metal from a VCR housing to make
stuff with. Might find something around your house. <grin>

Along with my flexible tag board "treble damper protection device" (see
earlier post), I carry a piece of plexiglass about the same size, that I
procured from the disposal bin at the local hardware (which cost me $2.00),
to push the mute down below the dampers. Sand the edges and corners round.
The long end of the mute is placed in the space for the action bracket.
BTW, the mute is thin piece of 1" wide action cloth, cut at a taper from
3/8" to 5/8" and left at the original length.  I use the handle of my split
mute to insert the strip from C8 down to the break in the section, above the
dampers.  Then employ the flexible.ah. treble damper protection device to
"save" the dampers that I just lifted with the damper pedal.  The rigid
"treble damper positioning device" engages the strip mute to slide the mute
below the damper line with the long end hanging out over the hammer rail.
Thin action cloth is required because the strings get closer together at the
bridge.  This technique is about 6 years old, and has worked on virtually
every vertical action I've encountered-even the dreaded plastic actions from
the 50's and bird cage actions.  The insertion devices work well for a
variety of other uses.

Paul C

 

 

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