how about? for damper felts

Andrew and Rebeca Anderson anrebe at sbcglobal.net
Fri May 18 18:46:49 MDT 2007


Mr. Wright,
The soldering iron brass key bushing cauls are available from 
PianoTek Supply.  They also sell rheostats to control the heat.  The 
point is to be able to drop water on the caul and have a drip 
evaporate off as opposed to phoosing off into steam.  Ie, a wool 
friendly temperature.  I use this for wool bushings that just won't 
stay sized.  The cauls from PianoTek are sized so you can size the 
bushings within 0.005 of the keypin.

They're useful for encouraging stubborn bushings out too.   Never 
thought carpenters glue was that difficult to remove...  How about PVC-E?

Andrew Anderson

At 06:36 PM 5/18/2007, you wrote:
>oh yes, Terry, I've heard people mention this felt wedge technique: 
>so, should I presume that you have 88 little wedges for all the 
>keys? This technique sounds like it might be even more focused than 
>just soaking the bushings. I like the brass caul/soldering iron idea 
>- I'll have to make a tip like that for my soldering  iron. Sounds 
>like the cat's meow...
>
>Cheers,
>
>Allen Wright, RPT
>London, UK
>
>
>On 19 May 2007, at 00:04, Farrell wrote:
>
>>I've never tried wallpaper remover with water - although I hear 
>>very good results are had with that combo. I have always used 
>>denatured alcohol & water - about 50/50 on both damper felts and 
>>key bushing felts. Once the felt has been wetted, one can switch to 
>>straight water. The 50/50 initial ratio seems to not be critical at 
>>all. If hide glue had been used, after several hours of soaking, 
>>felt simply falls off - no cutting, tugging, scraping - no nothing 
>>- felt simply falls off.
>>
>>For white-type glue in key bushings, I have soaked with 
>>alcohol/water overnight. I place small wedges of dense felt in the 
>>mortise to hold moisture right at the key bushings. Then I hit each 
>>bushing with a very quick application of a dedicated hot key 
>>bushing ironing brass piece in the soldering iron. The quick blast 
>>of heat on the soaked bushing gives the bushing glue a shot of 
>>steam and makes them all but fall out. Unfortunately there remains 
>>some glue residue on the wood.  :-(
>>
>>I wish it were a law to only used hot hide glue on key bushings. 
>>Pa-foo-ee on anyone that doesn't.  ;-)
>>
>>Terry Farrell
>>----- Original Message -----
>>
>>While we're on this subject - I just introduced the notion of using 
>>a damper felt removal solution (diluted wallpaper remover and 
>>vinegar) rather than the manly (or womanly) slicing off and sanding 
>>of old felts (the old-fashioned method they've been using here), 
>>into the milieu of the Steinway London Restoration Centre, where 
>>I've been working for the last few months. Lightbulbs went on above 
>>heads when they realized how much time they won't be wasting 
>>anymore if they incorporate this cheeky American technique : )
>>
>>I've always figured that the ratios of the different ingredients 
>>were not particularly crucial - just a well-diluted solution. Does 
>>anyone have any comments on that? Is the vinegar really necessary? 
>>I think my solution morphed over the years from one including 
>>alcohol-water-vinegar to the present one, for vaguely remembered reasons....
>>
>>For keybushing removal here, they've been using pure "meths'", 
>>which as far as i can tell is a mix of ethanol and methanol (yikes 
>>- isn't that toxic?) and lots of tugging and slicing. I think the 
>>American solution will be an improvement with that, as well.
>>
>>I know: steam and wet cloth works very well on key bushings also, 
>>but that's probably a little too radical too present here.
>>
>>I'd be curious to hear if there are any other ideas on glue 
>>softening solutions. This one works best with hide glue, naturally. 
>>Anybody have a solution for white and other more stubborn glues?
>>
>>Sincerely,
>>
>>Allen Wright, RPT
>>London, UK
>>

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