Rebuilding an upright

Jude Reveley/Absolute Piano juderev at verizon.net
Mon Apr 21 19:59:06 MDT 2008


Hey Al,

A few years ago, I used the following technique on a Beckstein L that I didn't want to pull all apart (see pictures below). It would work just as well for uprights if you want a real nice fit with more wood, less epoxy FWIW.

Make a masonite template of the area you want to rout out. Rout out with pattern bits of varying depths 1/2" to 1-1/2". Fill masonite with epoxy to make a form and then use the form to rout out an exact copy of your cavity. Pretty simple overall; granted, a bit more work than just gap filling with epoxy but it's satisfying and I would especially recommend for open face blocks where you need that visual appeal. Charge the same as a small grand. 

Jude Reveley, RPT
Absolute Piano Restoration, LLC
Lowell, Massachusetts
(978) 323-4545

  Al, 
  Another pinblock option which the others have not mentioned yet: If the original block is still well attached to the back structure, rout out a cavity in the original block for each section of tuning pins, and inset a piece of new pinblock. Epoxy, screws, dowels, whatever makes you feel comfortable. This lets you preserve the plate/pinblock relationship, making soundboard/bridge alignment a lot less complicated, as described by Del. 
  Mike 
   
  AlliedPianoCraft wrote: 
  > I just got a call to rebuild a Stieff upright which the customer > believes was made in the 1920"s. He wants a new soundboard, pinblock etc. 
  > > While I have installed many soundboards (I don't make my own) and > pinblocks in grands, I have never replaced any in uprights. 
  > > I have two questions: 1, Is it more or less difficult to replace a > soundboard and pinblock on an upright? 2, Comparative price. How > should I estimate the job as compared to a grand. 
  > > Thanks for any input. 
  > > Al Guecia 

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