Hardening Bridge Caps

[Delwin D Fandrich]

My practice is similar. I paint on the epoxy (System Three Coating Epoxy -- it's
viscosity is just slightly higher than water) and let it soak in. If it doesn't
appear to want to soak (harder maple, or whatever) I help it along with a wadded
paper towel. Work it in. Then, just before it cures hard I wipe off the excess.
After it's cured -- in another 48 hours or so -- it's time to lightly sand (just
to flatten the surface and give it a nice matt finish), mark, punch, drill and
notch. I also leave off the DAG -- never have liked the stuff.
 
ddf
 
 


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From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of
David Love
Sent: April 26, 2008 8:23 AM
To: 'Pianotech List'
Subject: RE: Hardening Bridge Caps



I let it dry first then sand back the coating so it's just flat again with very
fine paper, ready for refinishing-I don't use DAG but leave the bridge top
natural wood.  I try to avoid getting the epoxy in the bridge pin holes and I
take a toothpick to kind of ream the holes of any excess epoxy before it cures.
A thin coat of epoxy takes quite awhile to cure so there's plenty of time.  

 

When doing an older bridge this way (repining and renotching) I allow the epoxy
to go into the holes a bit and then redrill before pinning.  The epoxy allows
you to redrill the holes without any chipping.  

 

In this case I haven't found redrilling is necessary if you are careful.  The
idea of using the CA, if it works as well, is to avoid this particular problem
since the thin CA won't build up.  Also, it will presumably wick itself deeper
into the wood-or, at least, that's what I'm wondering.

 

David Love
davidlovepianos at comcast.net
www.davidlovepianos.com 

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of
erwinspiano at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 8:03 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: Hardening Bridge Caps

 

Dave
  Jsut curious.  are you then pinning it before the epoxy dries or while it's
wet. If wet isn't that a bit of a sticky wicket to get it done before things
begin to set.
  If dry then the pin holes require some reaming....Yes? Are you coating the top
with dag or leaving it natural
  I like this idea .....all but the sticky wicket part..
  Dale




When cutting a new bridge cap I typically paint on a low viscosity epoxy to
both harden and seal the cap.  I do this after drilling and notching but
before pinning, sanding back the bridge top flat again before inserting the
bridge pins.  
 
I'm considering doing this same process with a thin CA glue which seems like
it will offer some advantages: cures faster, wicks into the wood better,
requires less sanding afterward.  
 
Any thoughts on the differences in terms of providing a seal and adding
density to the wood between the two substances?
 
David Love
davidlovepianos at comcast.net 
www.davidlovepianos.com <http://www.davidlovepianos.com/> 
 
 
 


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