hammer return spring string

[tom]

Subject: hammer return spring string

 

I have a customer with a nice Yamaha M2 console. The hammer return spring
strings are all rotten.

Do I replace all the strings? My first choice. Or, do I replace the butt
flange assy. (flange, spring, string)?

Doing that I will probably have to travel the flanges. My guess at time
would be longer to do the strings alone. All the bushings are moving well.
No verdigris.

Any suggestions? Am I looking at 4 to 6 hours or more? How much does a job
like this run?

Thanks 

Steve Kessler

 


Steve,

This is a copy of my post from several years ago with some additions.

 If your piano has butt plates this is my suggestion.

`

>From the archives with editing:
 
I've done many of these jobs and have posted a method for
 
> Replacement of the cords in the past. With input from a tech in Japan,
 
 
> (Sorry, but his name escapes me now) I refined my approach so at the 
 
> risk of some redundancy here goes. First, we are assuming that the 
 
> pinning is solid, the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers are
 
not
 
> worn past reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years old
 
and
 
> If not in a school situation, I've found them to meet these criteria. 
 
> With the action in the piano I space hammers tightening the hammer
 
flange screws. 
 
      Now with the action on the bench and in the cradle,I  tighten all
remaining screws, reshape hammers
 
> and blow out all debris.
 
      Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in
 
> this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. Next Loosen the 
 
> butt plate screws and hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from the 
 
> bridle straps without disconnecting them from the bridle wire. (That
 
was
 
> the tip from our Japanese friend) Now the flanges are exposed for 
 
> removing and replacing the cords. I put a small amount of acetone on 
 
> the slots and then immediately clean out the old cord and slot with 
 
> the chisel point of a small spade drill bit. ( By hand -not chucked in
 
 
> the drill!)  You may have to reapply the solvent as you go. Finish the
 
 
> slot cleanout with a small brass suede brush, and
 
compressed air or vac.
 
      (I found that the action centers are unchanged by any acetone that
migrates to the bushing)
 
>     Now for the cords. If this is not a gray market piano you can get
the 
 
> cord from Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not 
 
> available wrap some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff) around an old #88 
 
> key top and slice down the middle. Either way works, but the idea is
 
to get 88
 
*       cords cut to exact length.
*        Addendum here .See Joe Goss post on spider wire. I recently went to
a fly fishing shop and bought some braided line of the same diameter as the
original cord.
        
 Now glue one side in the slot -I use
 
> titebond- a small amount -and press the cord in the slot with a small 
 
> screw driver lining up the end of the cord with the line in the
 
flange.
 
> By the time you get all 88 done the glue will be set. Go back and glue
 
 
> the other side. Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the springs
 
in
 
> the cords, reinstall the rest rail and your done. Two hours max and 
 
> less with practice.
 
>     The advantage over replacing the flanges is not only time, but
 
> it is difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in the way.
 
> hammer spacing will not change, the old flanges are already
 
> Dimensionally stable @ the screw and will not need retightening as
 
> soon. 
 
>     If this is a worn action with loose pinning then flange
 
> replacement is the best way. Also if this is an action without butt
 
> plates and the flange is pinned to the butt in my opinion it's less
 
> clear which method is best. I've done about quite a few of these and
 
> almost all have the butt plate style.  
 
>     ` Tom Driscoll
 
> 

 


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