hammer return spring string

[Thomas Cole]

Tom,

Thanks for the update on this procedure. Just one comment: Did you mean 
to say unscrew the hanger from the treble end? The other two bracket 
points face the same way and slide out very easily.

Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in

 

> this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail.



Tom Cole


tom wrote:

>  
>
>  
>
> Subject: hammer return spring string
>
>  
>
> I have a customer with a nice Yamaha M2 console. The hammer return 
> spring strings are all rotten.
>
> Do I replace all the strings? My first choice. Or, do I replace the 
> butt flange assy. (flange, spring, string)?
>
> Doing that I will probably have to travel the flanges. My guess at 
> time would be longer to do the strings alone. All the bushings are 
> moving well. No verdigris.
>
> Any suggestions? Am I looking at 4 to 6 hours or more? How much does a 
> job like this run?
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve Kessler
>
>  
>
>
> Steve,
>
> This is a copy of my post from several years ago with some additions.
>
>  If your piano has butt plates this is my suggestion.
>
> `
>
>>From the archives with editing:
>
> 
>
>I've done many of these jobs and have posted a method for
>
> 
>
>> Replacement of the cords in the past. With input from a tech in Japan,
>
> 
>
> 
>
>> (Sorry, but his name escapes me now) I refined my approach so at the 
>
> 
>
>> risk of some redundancy here goes. First, we are assuming that the 
>
> 
>
>> pinning is solid, the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers are
>
> 
>
>not
>
> 
>
>> worn past reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years old
>
> 
>
>and
>
> 
>
>> If not in a school situation, I've found them to meet these criteria. 
>
> 
>
>> With the action in the piano I space hammers tightening the hammer
>
> 
>
>flange screws. 
>
> 
>
>      Now with the action on the bench and in the cradle,I  tighten all
>
>remaining screws, reshape hammers
>
> 
>
>> and blow out all debris.
>
> 
>
>      Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in
>
> 
>
>> this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. Next Loosen the 
>
> 
>
>> butt plate screws and hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from the 
>
> 
>
>> bridle straps without disconnecting them from the bridle wire. (That
>
> 
>
>was
>
> 
>
>> the tip from our Japanese friend) Now the flanges are exposed for 
>
> 
>
>> removing and replacing the cords. I put a small amount of acetone on 
>
> 
>
>> the slots and then immediately clean out the old cord and slot with 
>
> 
>
>> the chisel point of a small spade drill bit. ( By hand -not chucked in
>
> 
>
> 
>
>> the drill!)  You may have to reapply the solvent as you go. Finish the
>
> 
>
> 
>
>> slot cleanout with a small brass suede brush, and
>
> 
>
>compressed air or vac.
>
> 
>
>      (I found that the action centers are unchanged by any acetone that
>
>migrates to the bushing)
>
> 
>
>>     Now for the cords. If this is not a gray market piano you can get
>
>the 
>
> 
>
>> cord from Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not 
>
> 
>
>> available wrap some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff) around an old #88 
>
> 
>
>> key top and slice down the middle. Either way works, but the idea is
>
> 
>
>to get 88
>
> 
>
>?       cords cut to exact length.
>
>?        Addendum here .See Joe Goss post on spider wire. I recently went to a fly fishing shop and bought some braided line of the same diameter as the original cord.
>
>        
>
> Now glue one side in the slot -I use
>
> 
>
>> titebond- a small amount -and press the cord in the slot with a small 
>
> 
>
>> screw driver lining up the end of the cord with the line in the
>
> 
>
>flange.
>
> 
>
>> By the time you get all 88 done the glue will be set. Go back and glue
>
> 
>
> 
>
>> the other side. Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the springs
>
> 
>
>in
>
> 
>
>> the cords, reinstall the rest rail and your done. Two hours max and 
>
> 
>
>> less with practice.
>
> 
>
>>     The advantage over replacing the flanges is not only time, but
>
> 
>
>> it is difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in the way.
>
> 
>
>> hammer spacing will not change, the old flanges are already
>
> 
>
>> Dimensionally stable @ the screw and will not need retightening as
>
> 
>
>> soon. 
>
> 
>
>>     If this is a worn action with loose pinning then flange
>
> 
>
>> replacement is the best way. Also if this is an action without butt
>
> 
>
>> plates and the flange is pinned to the butt in my opinion it's less
>
> 
>
>> clear which method is best. I've done about quite a few of these and
>
> 
>
>> almost all have the butt plate style.  
>
> 
>
>>     ` Tom Driscoll
>
> 
>
>> 
>
>  
>
>
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