You'll have to put ( at least ) 6 mil plastic down, then pour more concrete with the heating pipes in it, OR, much better, plastic, rigid foam, heat tubes and THEN concrete ( or wood ) floor. For a "quick fix", put down thick plastic, and plywood over it.( Or just cheap brown pressboard ). Thump --- Erwinspiano at aol.com wrote: > > HI Annie > All new slabs require a plastic layer/moisture > barrier laid down before > the concrete is poured. Is this an old slab? > Probably epoxy coating the floor > is the only thing that will seal it. My brother in > law is an expert on this > & I'll ask him. > > Dale Erwin > > My new shop has a slab floor that currently tends > to get moist at times. > Since I haven't been here an entire year yet, I'm > not sure what the > pattern is (and I've already had some success with > stopping it), but it > seems to just come and go. I'm prepared ('though > not excited <g>) to tile > around the entire shop, but I don't know whether > that will take care of > it. > > Thus far, I've insulated the walls and covered the > ceiling trusses with > plastic. Foam board will go up as soon as there's > another pair of hands > handy. Heat currently comes from a wood pellet > stove, which I love but > which makes me nervous when it comes to working > with various chemicals. > > So, I'm toying with the idea of putting in hot > water floor heating, > thinking that it will be more even and less > dangerous AND keep the > moisture below the floor surface. Has anyone put > floor heat in a shop, > and how well did it work? Is this idea worth > pursuing? > > Thanks, as always. > > Annie Grieshop > > > > > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways > to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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