Hi, Wim:
You have the winning attitude. Just take it a step at a time. You'll do fine. I've taught a few guys how to do this, and my motto is, "Let them make some mistakes. They'll be better for it". Sometimes, I catch myself insisting that "my way is better". I've often found that other people can make success with a method that didn't work for me. If you get stuck, you can always ask for suggestions.
Years ago I went to the L.A. headquarters of Samick Music Corp. to learn how they do polyester repair. I spent the day there, and they showed me their methods and equipment. Since that facility was doing that work full time, they had some very heavy duty machines. Depending upon how much work you anticipate, you may not need so much. Since I work at a store, and often have this repair to do, I purchased similar machines to Samick's. Basically a hand-held straight grinder. It is too fast, so I use a Variac transformer to lower the voltage and speed. It is an edge buffer, so I use buffing sticks instead of paste or liquid compounds. You can get all the hardware to convert an automotive swirl buffer to an edge buffing wheel from suppliers. Or you can use a bonnet like is used on autos. 3M has hook-n-loop buffing pads which use liquid compounds to accomplish the same thing. I don't like them because they throw the compound around on everything in sight. You will probably will be doing this on sales floors and in homes, so splashing compound around the room is not cool. Well, of course, compound dust isn't so good either. You can get most materials from a local plastic store if you have one nearby. Poly is nothing but plastic, so anything that works on plastic will work well on poly.
The kit you'll get from Ruth will have everything you need to get started, but you will want to invest in a buffing machine to be able to buff a large area like a lid or table. There's nothing like pulling out Big Bertha to power through all those scratches. I've found that, with the right compound, I can make most scratches go away easily without too much effort. I try to avoid sanding if I can help it.
The real trick is evaluating the repair before you begin. If you can catch your fingernail on the scratch, you'll have to sand it out first. If you can't feel it, you can use a buffer to take it out. Don't make more work for yourself by sanding something that a buffing wheel could remove, because you'll have to buff out the fine scratches left by the sandpaper anyway.
There's a lot more I could write, but I'll let you get your feet wet first.
If you ever get the movie rights, I'll be first in line at the box office. You do have good talent for writing.
Good luck.
Paul McCloud
San Diego
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: 04/02/2009 11:29:16 PM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] poly repair charges
Paul
Your comment, "Gearing up for poly may cost some $$, but you have to be prepared to commit to the whole nine yards." hits home. The cost of the kit is nothing compared to the cost of the trip and hotel. By the time I pay for everything, I'm looking at a bill for about $1300. When I told my wife that, she almost had a cow, until I told here that after the 8th or 9th service call, it's all down hill. I just entered about 100 furniture stores, refinishers, cleaners, etc, into my data base, and they are all getting a letter outlining my qualification. I won't get rich, but as you said, I need a couple of more arrows to make ends meet. Now if someone will just buy the movie rights to my novel......
Wim
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul McCloud <pmc033 at earthlink.net>
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 2:21 pm
Subject: Re: [pianotech] poly repair charges
Hi, Mike:
I haven't had problems with shelf life of the polyester. I have
some that is years old and still usable. There is a gel polyester for
vertical surfaces, and comes in a tube. I have one of those that is so old
I can't remember when I got it. Still works. YMMV.
One thing that is helpful is a good strong light. Switch it off
when you show the customer! Just kidding.. Always use a flat sanding block
DAMHIK. If you use factory polyester, you'll pay a fortune, and it'll be
worthless in a month. Ruth's polyester has to be color matched to the old
finish, but it works great. It's thinner, too, so it will spread easily
into nooks and crannys (inside your dam) so you won't have so many bubbles
and voids. Mix things up carefully, and follow the directions exactly. As
far as the kit is concerned, you will make it up in repairs. Gearing up for
poly may cost some $$, but you have to be prepared to commit to the whole
nine yards. If you do, you'll make more per hour and be in demand. In
today's uncertain economy, it's good to have more arrows in your quiver.
Now, if someone can show me how to repair the veneer under the
polyester and make it look AS NEW, I'll be forever grateful.
Paul McCloud
San Diego
-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Mike Kurta
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 2:02 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] poly repair charges
Wim:
I took the class from Ruth a few years ago, its not the class that's
costly, its the kit to do the work you must purchase. I did a few jobs and
found several things: 1. You must have good eyesight as you are constantly
filling, sanding, sanding, polishing, polishing and refining the job to the
point where it matches the surrounding area. This has to be done with black
as well as natural wood finishes. This can be tedious (but being tuners,
we're used to that) and your customers will expect a near perfect repair and
as Cliff said, some are very critical. 2. If you don't maintain
proficiency, its easy to lose the touch and skill needed to do a good
repair. 3. The filler that is used to do the repair has a shelf life of
about 6 months and is not cheap. For these reasons I stopped doing poly and
sold my kit to another tech.
On the plus side, once trained you will have work coming to your door
when piano dealers, owners and furniture stores know you are capable of
doing poly repairs. And you can almost name your price. It might be a good
idea to check with furniture stores to see who they use to get an idea if
others are in the business. See you in G.R.
Mike Kurta, RPT
Crystal Lake, IL
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