[pianotech] help Please (regarding plate bushings/CA glue)

[John Ross]

Since the hole is not a critical size, I would just use a piece of piano wire.
The end of a bass string is ideal, just cut it at a 45 degree angle.
That should make the hole.
Very little chance of breakage, and if it does, just make another one.
If you do the treatment when the piano is at it's driest, there may be enough shrinkage to allow the C/A to work without drilling.
Try one, then remove the pin and see how far the C/A has penetrated.
John Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia

On 10-11-2011, at 3:30 PM, Joseph Garrett wrote:

> Les Bartlett asked: 
> "This is second attempt for a decent toooner, but limited repair-er to help
> me with something I think I saw on this list in short form, but which I need
> better explained. Evidently on some verticals, a, or some techs drill holes
> through tuning pin bushings, down to pin block, then use super glue to send
> down the hole which then gets into the pinblock. I'm inexperienced, and a
> bit nervous about trying such without a bit more information about how they
> accomplish it, and experienced results. Would someone who does this
> please reply- off list probably good as I don't want to waste other folks'
> time. 
> Thanks"
> 
> Les,
> That was me that reported that. I use a 1/16" x 12" Aviation twist bit in a
> variable speed drill. Because the bit is so long you can "bend" it a bit,
> in the process of drilling, (w/o breaking it<G>However, buy at least two
> bits.<G>). This set up is a bit awkward, at first, but you get used to it.
> The Variable Speed Drill I use is the best I've found....ever!<G> It's a
> Souix Falls, ergonomic and it's the real deal! It's only down side is it's
> a corded rather than being battery operated. I wear a leather glove on my
> left hand, (the one I guide the bit with), to hold the bit and get the
> drill bit started in the bushing with "slow" speed and then up the speed
> just a bit. You should be able to feel the bit exit the other side of the
> bushing, as there's usually a gap between the under side of the webbing,
> (Plate), and the top of the pin block material. Even if you go a bit
> deeper, it's not going to hurt anything imo. I get the bit started on the
> outer edge of the bushing. Since you are forced to drill at a slight angle
> this will assure you, (hopefully), that you are drilling only the bushing.
> After I've done the drilling, I try to get as much of the sawdust out of
> the holes and tuning pin field. I use a crevice tool with a MickeyDee's
> straw taped over the tip. This will allow you to get right down over the
> drilled holes and suck that stuff up. Make sure you are using a H.D.
> Vacuum, because some cheapie vacuums do not like a severely restricted
> situation. (DAMHIK!!)
> Once the holes are clean, I load up a Veterinary Syringe w/a blunt needle,
> (one that will go INTO the drilled hole), with CA, Super Thin and proceed
> to saturate that sucker. So far, I've had very good success with this
> procedure. Yes, it takes a bunch of time and it's a bit trying on the bod,
> but that's why we get the big bucks. And, it's a whole lot less time than
> disassembly and replacement of a pinblock in a marginal piano.<G> 
> I always have a conversation with the client about the possibility of
> failure of this procedure, and the possibility of the need/cost to replace
> a pin block. (Yes, I have had a failure on a VERY crappy piano! I suspect
> the pinblock material was Balsa Wood!<G>) So far, however, I've had good,
> LONG TERM success. Many happy clients because of it.<G>
> Hope that helps,
> Joe
> 
> 
> 
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain of the Tool Police
> Squares R I
> 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20111110/6f9c8cae/attachment.htm>