[pianotech] Cutting keytops with a table saw

[Chuck Behm]

>I think I'm gonna stay away from the table saw method.  Didn't Chuck Behm
have a PTJournal article about doing it this way not too long ago?  The
setup looks kinda dangerous to me, especially for keysticks with a severe
flare angle.  Too much to go wrong, in my opinion. - Chris S.

I did write about this, Chris. As far as safety issues concerning the
blade, I'm convinced it's the safest method, if done right. The method I
use is to have the blade all the way up, so that the cut being made is
nearly perpendicular to the bed of the saw, and without a blade guard in
place, so one can see what is going on as the cut is being done. You must,
of course, wear appropriate goggles, and gloves (especially if you're
cutting off the old keytops, chips of which will tend to zing you in the
fingers).

The thing that makes this particularly safe (in my opinion) is that the key
is not being pulled forward, as is the case when using a router. The blade
is spinning downward, keeping the key planted on the keybed, and since the
key is not being pushed all the way past the blade (another reason to have
the blade fully extended - you don't want the leading edge of the key to
hit the teeth of the saw a second time coming out the other side), there's
no tendency for the keystick to fly upward. You push the keystick in, then
pull it back out. (If you push a keystick in and let go of it, it will just
sit there on the saw bed not going anywhere.)

If you keep you fingers at all times behind the key button, and keep an eye
on where you're stopping with the forward cut, you shouldn't ever have a
problem.

The one thing to be concerned about is when cutting off old tops, make sure
you're not creating a combustible mixture inside the saw. Just recently
(and I know better) I cut off a set of old celluloid tops. Halfway through
the job, a spark from the saw ignited the mound of shredded celluloid, and
flames shot up past the blade. Fortunately, I had a fire extinguisher
within 10 feet of the saw. I emptied it into the saw, then cleaned out the
smouldering woodchips inside the body of the saw.

The rest of the keytops I took of with a heated iron, then skimmed off the
top of the keysticks to match the others. Needless to say, I won't do that
again. (Just as I will never again try to use an 18" extension bit on my
drill press, or cut a 4" square cube of oak on my chop saw.)

I've been doing keys this way since the 1970's, and this is the first time
I've had a problem. Do make sure you check the blade with a square every
time you do a job, or you can end up with keys that look like a nicely
shingled roof.  Chuck Behm

P.S. This method works for me, but if everyone else in the world likes
using a Safe-T-Planer, a router or 80 grit sandpaper, that's fine. To each
his own.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20120124/1f38c597/attachment.htm>