Okay, I've got the plate removed, and the pinblock too now. Turns out there is a plate flange. So I think we've got a plan: 1) strengthen the heck out of the case. 2) Replace the pinblock. Easy ;) I've cleaned up most of the epoxy goop that some jerk put in there (gosh i wonder who THAT was?). BTW the eopxy was West Systems, but I guess I didn't use any filler. I'll order some High Density or Colloidal filler for the fitting. The pinblock measures just under 38"x 8" and is 1.5" thick. I'd like to use the most eco-friendly wood possible while still holding up under the tension for a few decades. Any suggestions? Wouldn't it be great to reclaim some used hardwood? Somebody should do that. I don't know if that's possible though given the integrity needed for the pinblock. When I replace a soundboard someday I'd like to try the green SB that the Canadians were supposedly experimenting with a couple/few years ago. However, when I asked them about it a few months ago I got no response. If anyone wants to send me a pinblock from reclaimed hardwood and can guarantee it's integrity, for a reasonable price, I would be willing to pay higher than what Delignit or Schaff, etc. goes for. This is to be an eco-friendly piano, after all. The felt will come from either recycled or upcycled materials as much as possible. Et cetera,[image: Inline image 1] The gaps at the top of the piano were filled with square blocks. However, they were glued to the top of the piano, and the only way to remove the top was to bust it out, which took the 2 blocks you see missing here out. I will of course fill in these gaps. I kind of like the idea of creating a new back from strong beech plywood or something with holes cut out for the handles and soundboard. However, as far as filling in these gaps first: Terry said: " However, I'd fill the gaps with chunks of good strong hardwood. Hard maple is fine, but there are also a slew of ring-porous hardwoods that are very epoxy-bonding-friendly - white ash, red oak, etc. I would remove the 3/4" (or so) hardwood (I presume) strip on the very back top of the piano, cut hardwood blocks to fill the gaps between the posts, drill holes (1" or so) in the ends of the blocks (two or three) and install hardwood dowels in the block end holes (1" red oak are commonly available and great for this application), then I'd drill/chisel/ poke/beat/chop/rout out holes in the side/rear of the post such that you can install the filler blocks, with the dowels sticking out the sides, between the posts from the rear." I am afraid I have read this may times and still don't get it. Terry, would it be possible to explain this another way? or draw a picture? or perhaps over the phone... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20130219/0546bc73/attachment-0001.htm> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: image/jpeg Size: 45855 bytes Desc: not available URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20130219/0546bc73/attachment-0001.jpeg>
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