[pianotech] First Pinbock

[Noah Frere]

[image: Inline image 1]


On Tue, Feb 19, 2013 at 9:17 PM, Noah Frere <noahfrere at gmail.com> wrote:

> Okay, I've got the plate removed, and the pinblock too now. Turns out
> there is a plate flange. So I think we've got a plan: 1) strengthen the
> heck out of the case. 2) Replace the pinblock. Easy ;)
> I've cleaned up most of the epoxy goop that some jerk put in there (gosh i
> wonder who THAT was?). BTW the eopxy was West Systems, but I guess I didn't
> use any filler. I'll order some High Density or Colloidal filler for the
> fitting. The pinblock measures just under 38"x 8" and is 1.5" thick. I'd
> like to use the most eco-friendly wood possible while still holding up
> under the tension for a few decades. Any suggestions? Wouldn't it be great
> to reclaim some used hardwood? Somebody should do that. I don't know if
> that's possible though given the integrity needed for the pinblock. When I
> replace a soundboard someday I'd like to try the green SB that the
> Canadians were supposedly experimenting with a couple/few years ago.
> However, when I asked them about it a few months ago I got no response.
> If anyone wants to send me a pinblock from reclaimed hardwood and can
> guarantee it's integrity, for a reasonable price, I would be willing to pay
> higher than what Delignit or Schaff, etc. goes for.
> This is to be an eco-friendly piano, after all. The felt will come from
> either recycled or upcycled materials as much as possible. Et cetera,[image:
> Inline image 1]
>  The gaps at the top of the piano were filled with square blocks.
> However, they were glued to the top of the piano, and the only way to
> remove the top was to bust it out, which took the 2 blocks you see missing
> here out. I will of course fill in these gaps. I kind of like the idea of
> creating a new back from strong beech plywood or something with holes cut
> out for the handles and soundboard. However, as far as filling in these
> gaps first: Terry said: " However, I'd fill the gaps with chunks of good
> strong hardwood. Hard maple is fine, but there are also a slew of
> ring-porous hardwoods that are very epoxy-bonding-friendly - white ash, red
> oak, etc.  I would remove the 3/4" (or so) hardwood (I presume) strip on
> the very back top of the piano, cut hardwood blocks to fill the gaps
> between the posts, drill holes (1" or so) in the ends of the blocks (two or
> three) and install hardwood dowels in the block end holes (1" red oak are
> commonly available and great for this application), then I'd drill/chisel/
> poke/beat/chop/rout out holes in the side/rear of the post such that you
> can install the filler blocks, with the dowels sticking out the sides,
> between the posts from the rear." I am afraid I have read this may times
> and still don't get it. Terry, would it be possible to explain this another
> way? or draw a picture? or perhaps over the phone...
>
>
>
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