Adjusting dampers to tray

Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre baldwin@mta-01.sk.sympatico.ca
Mon, 10 Jun 2002 13:17:52 -0600


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Hi Dave,
              I agree completely. Sequence is every thing in quality damper 
work. Changing lift tray felt, and key end felt, can save a lot of time and 
hassles in the long run, on a well worn action.
The Spurlock jig makes timing a snap. As a tip, Iron new felt with a warm 
clothes iron before installation, you will be amazed how few keys you will 
have to shim.

just my 2c worth
Roger


At 06:19 PM 6/8/02 -0700, you wrote:
>The only problem with this method is that it sets the timing for the pedal 
>sometimes at the expense of the keys and the sostenuto.  You should really 
>set all the damper levers on the same plane first using the height of the 
>key end felt as a guide to insure proper timing from the keys (this is 
>also needed for even sostenuto action).  Then you should make any 
>adjustments necessary with the timing of the key end felt.  If there is 
>unevenness in the level of the key end felt, then you need to either build 
>up or trim down as needed testing each key.  Once that is accomplished, 
>you can then set the lift from the pedal either shimming the tray felt or 
>using adjustable capstans if the piano is equipped with them.
>
>David Love
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:ramsey@extremezone.com>Kevin E. Ramsey
>To: <mailto:pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org
>Sent: June 08, 2002 5:49 PM
>Subject: Re: Adjusting dampers to tray
>
>     Matt, what I do is perhaps the easiest, and usually gets me perfect 
> results. ( I like what Roger had to say about installing new tray felt)
>     What I do when I want to re-set damper timing, like when the dampers 
> are almost down on the key ends, and lifting immediately, is to go under 
> the piano and adjust the pedal rod nut up a bit. Then I come back up, put 
> my finger on the top of a damper (lightly) and depress the key. The 
> damper will stop the hammer rise where it contacts the back of the key. 
> This is how I check the timing. I just raise the pedal rod nut until the 
> damper timing is at one third to one half blow distance. Then I pull the 
> action, loosen all the damper screws, lift the underlevers, making sure 
> they're free. Then you can tap the dampers lightly down into position, 
> re-tighten the screws, and re-regulate the pedal nut. After correcting 
> the ones that inevitably twist upon tightening the screws, you're 
> basically done. You'll inevitably run into some that are a little tight 
> on the wire, but not bad enough to run a drill bit down into. just lift 
> the underlever up on the wire, and after the dampers are down in 
> position, tap the underlever down on the tray lightly.
>     All you're really doing is setting the timing to the same thing that 
> will be lifting the dampers; the tray.
>     The only problem with this in a Steinway is that often the tray is 
> not level. It will end up with a damper timing that's earlier in the bass 
> and later in the treble, which is the opposite from what I'd really like. 
> I just did this the other day, and after about a half hour's work, they 
> all lifted perfectly with the pedal. It's a really good technique. 
> Richard Davenport taught me this.  I've probably corrupted his technique, 
> so if anyone has a problem with how I described it, blame me, not Richard.
>
>
>
>
>Kevin E. Ramsey
><mailto:ramsey@extremezone.com>ramsey@extremezone.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:ptuner@optonline.net>Matt Wynne
>To: <mailto:pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org
>Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 3:04 PM
>Subject: Adjusting dampers to tray
>
>Greeting esteemed colleagues:
>
>I will be reassembling a damper system in an old S&S grand.  It is one of
>those systems that was born without regulating screws on each underlever
>for adjustment to the lift tray.  Is there any efficient way to adjust them
>so that they all lift in unison with the pedal?  I'm aware of the old
>method using center rail punchings, or something similar, as shims, but
>there must be a better way.  Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Matt Wynne

Roger

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