Epoxy/bridge pins application

Farrell mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
Tue, 12 Oct 2004 12:16:57 -0400


This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
>From the West System web site - www.westsystem.com :
CAUTION! ...... Never heat mixed epoxy in a liquid state over 120=B0F =
(49=B0C).

There is a better solution (than use of solvents) to get good =
penetration without losing strength or moisture resistance. We recommend =
moderate heating of the repair area and the epoxy with a heat gun or =
heat lamp. The epoxy will have a lower viscosity and penetrate more =
deeply when it is warmed and contacts the warmed wood cavities and =
pores. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerable =
shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working =
life and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to =
gel. When the epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and =
effectiveness as a moisture barrier, which we feel more than offsets any =
advantages gained by adding solvents to the epoxy.

I pull the bridge pins, recondition the cap (plane & notch - why else =
are you restringing the piano?), and dap epoxy into pin holes, dab pin =
in epoxy, insert pin. I don't have to heat and have had excellent =
results.

Terry Farrell



  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Paul Chick (Earthlink)=20
  To: Pianotech=20
  Sent: Saturday, October 02, 2004 1:03 PM
  Subject: RE: Epoxy/bridge pins application


  Joe
  Read your method after I responded.  Granted, what I described can be =
messy.  One needs to be judicious with the epoxy.  Preheating the epoxy =
after mixing allows it to be drizzled into place, and speeds up the cure =
which can be helpful. Clean up is easy with a sharp chisal when the =
epoxy reaches a stiff gum state; acetone to follow, but be careful not =
to wash out the cracks.

  Paul C

  Subject: Re: Epoxy/bridge pins application


    Paul C said: " Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, =
whatever, after you
    place it on the cracks.  It becomes very thin and migrates into the =
cracks
    very well, but also sets quickly.  Use some tape to build dams =
around the
    area, set the bridge pins where you want them, apply glue then heat. =
 Allow
    24 hours to cure. Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, =
whatever, after you
    place it on the cracks.  It becomes very thin and migrates into the =
cracks
    very well, but also sets quickly.  Use some tape to build dams =
around the
    area, set the bridge pins where you want them, apply glue then heat. =
 Allow
    24 hours to cure."

      Paul C,
    Either you didn't read my method or you chose to dismiss it! :-(
    My method, (which was a product of Darrell Fandrich's =
inventiveness), applies the heat, THEN the epoxy, (in a SMALL amount =
sufficient to do the job w/o slathering the damned stuff all over the =
damned place!!!!! Yes, it takes a little longer to do than Bill's =
method, but it's neater, and esthetically better, IMO. Same =
system/different method, (that predates Bill's method by about 10 =
years!<G>)


      Paul C

    Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
    Captain, Tool Police
    Squares R I
---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/c6/ff/04/be/attachment.htm

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--



This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC