This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment >From the West System web site - www.westsystem.com : CAUTION! ...... Never heat mixed epoxy in a liquid state over 120=B0F = (49=B0C). There is a better solution (than use of solvents) to get good = penetration without losing strength or moisture resistance. We recommend = moderate heating of the repair area and the epoxy with a heat gun or = heat lamp. The epoxy will have a lower viscosity and penetrate more = deeply when it is warmed and contacts the warmed wood cavities and = pores. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerable = shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working = life and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to = gel. When the epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and = effectiveness as a moisture barrier, which we feel more than offsets any = advantages gained by adding solvents to the epoxy. I pull the bridge pins, recondition the cap (plane & notch - why else = are you restringing the piano?), and dap epoxy into pin holes, dab pin = in epoxy, insert pin. I don't have to heat and have had excellent = results. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Paul Chick (Earthlink)=20 To: Pianotech=20 Sent: Saturday, October 02, 2004 1:03 PM Subject: RE: Epoxy/bridge pins application Joe Read your method after I responded. Granted, what I described can be = messy. One needs to be judicious with the epoxy. Preheating the epoxy = after mixing allows it to be drizzled into place, and speeds up the cure = which can be helpful. Clean up is easy with a sharp chisal when the = epoxy reaches a stiff gum state; acetone to follow, but be careful not = to wash out the cracks. Paul C Subject: Re: Epoxy/bridge pins application Paul C said: " Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, = whatever, after you place it on the cracks. It becomes very thin and migrates into the = cracks very well, but also sets quickly. Use some tape to build dams = around the area, set the bridge pins where you want them, apply glue then heat. = Allow 24 hours to cure. Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, = whatever, after you place it on the cracks. It becomes very thin and migrates into the = cracks very well, but also sets quickly. Use some tape to build dams = around the area, set the bridge pins where you want them, apply glue then heat. = Allow 24 hours to cure." Paul C, Either you didn't read my method or you chose to dismiss it! :-( My method, (which was a product of Darrell Fandrich's = inventiveness), applies the heat, THEN the epoxy, (in a SMALL amount = sufficient to do the job w/o slathering the damned stuff all over the = damned place!!!!! Yes, it takes a little longer to do than Bill's = method, but it's neater, and esthetically better, IMO. Same = system/different method, (that predates Bill's method by about 10 = years!<G>) Paul C Joe Garrett, R.P.T. Captain, Tool Police Squares R I ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/c6/ff/04/be/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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