[CAUT] Checking

David Skolnik davidskolnik at optonline.net
Thu Dec 28 01:27:59 MST 2006


Jon-
You're pretty handy with a camera.  Any chance of including some 
pictures illustrating your points, below?

David Skolnik



At 06:48 PM 12/27/2006, you wrote:
> >there are a few good principles: smoothly curved profile of the tail, no
> >?bump?; there is a limit to how high the check can be relative to the shank
> >at rest, and this varies a bit with tail length; angle of check needs to be
> >within fairly tight parameters,
>
>I generally use a 3" arc on the tails. Due to the degree of coving, anything
>shorter leaves too thin of a tail section. I order hammers un-coved 
>and find the
>coving process unnecessary. It removes such a minute amount of 
>weight which has a
>negligible effect on touch weight (certainly not worth the effort). 
>I also ease the 'square'
>end with a rough file and fine-file the tapered edges to remove 'hairs'.
>
>Tail length 1 1/16", shorter lengths brings the check closer and the 
>tops of the back
>checks can hit the shoulders of the hammers.  I order hammers with a 
>molding 1/8" longer than my longest bore. I then sand all tails to 
>even length after hanging.  Why have varying tail lengths as a
>result of a tapered bore?
>
>Back check height, I have not gone wrong with setting the height to 
>even-with or 2 mm
>below the tail at drop position.
>
>Angle, 72 degrees from key stick. That's the leather face, not the 
>wood rear profile.
>
>That's my recipe for success.
>
>--
>
>Regards,
>
>Jon Page

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