Jon- You're pretty handy with a camera. Any chance of including some pictures illustrating your points, below? David Skolnik At 06:48 PM 12/27/2006, you wrote: > >there are a few good principles: smoothly curved profile of the tail, no > >?bump?; there is a limit to how high the check can be relative to the shank > >at rest, and this varies a bit with tail length; angle of check needs to be > >within fairly tight parameters, > >I generally use a 3" arc on the tails. Due to the degree of coving, anything >shorter leaves too thin of a tail section. I order hammers un-coved >and find the >coving process unnecessary. It removes such a minute amount of >weight which has a >negligible effect on touch weight (certainly not worth the effort). >I also ease the 'square' >end with a rough file and fine-file the tapered edges to remove 'hairs'. > >Tail length 1 1/16", shorter lengths brings the check closer and the >tops of the back >checks can hit the shoulders of the hammers. I order hammers with a >molding 1/8" longer than my longest bore. I then sand all tails to >even length after hanging. Why have varying tail lengths as a >result of a tapered bore? > >Back check height, I have not gone wrong with setting the height to >even-with or 2 mm >below the tail at drop position. > >Angle, 72 degrees from key stick. That's the leather face, not the >wood rear profile. > >That's my recipe for success. > >-- > >Regards, > >Jon Page -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20061228/7a3cb302/attachment.html
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