Hi Jon, I generally agree, on new work. Facing a piano with existing parts, in unknown condition, is the scenario I was writing about. Yes, the 2mm or so works well (assuming a standard drop equal to letoff, and measured just as it drops, not with some undetermined, usually too large aftertouch as I seem to find all too often). If you aren¹t careful to set up your keyframe to match key dip in the piano, this can be anyone¹s guess as a measurement. Faced with a tail profile that is unknown, one can remove a hammer and do an approximate compass thing using a bit of thread, holding one end about 2.5 to 3 inches along the shank, and with a loop on the other end scribe with a pencil point. But usually I just observe it passing the check on the upstroke to see whether it has a bump and how bad. And, of course, tail length is what it is. It¹s nice to control what you put on, but you also have to try to make the existing part work far too often <G>. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico On 12/27/06 4:48 PM, "Jon Page" <jonpage at comcast.net> wrote: >> >there are a few good principles: smoothly curved profile of the tail, no >> >?bump?; there is a limit to how high the check can be relative to the shank >> >at rest, and this varies a bit with tail length; angle of check needs to be >> >within fairly tight parameters, > > I generally use a 3" arc on the tails. Due to the degree of coving, anything > shorter leaves too thin of a tail section. I order hammers un-coved and find > the > coving process unnecessary. It removes such a minute amount of weight which > has a > negligible effect on touch weight (certainly not worth the effort). I also > ease the 'square' > end with a rough file and fine-file the tapered edges to remove 'hairs'. > > Tail length 1 1/16", shorter lengths brings the check closer and the tops of > the back > checks can hit the shoulders of the hammers. I order hammers with a molding > 1/8" longer than my longest bore. I then sand all tails to even length after > hanging. Why have varying tail lengths as a > result of a tapered bore? > > Back check height, I have not gone wrong with setting the height to even-with > or 2 mm > below the tail at drop position. > > Angle, 72 degrees from key stick. That's the leather face, not the wood rear > profile. > > That's my recipe for success. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20061228/5ff7d5cf/attachment.html
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC