Sohmer Grand

[Farrell]

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That is a tough situation. Obviously the work should be done right - =
taken apart and done so that it will work well for at least 25 years. =
Any piano that is sold as being "reconditioned" suggests that all the =
things not right have been fixed.

I read a response that suggested to run, not walk away from that job. In =
theory, I agree, although I temper that with knowing that it is not =
always easy to walk away from a job. However, I think it is clear that =
you can expect more of this in the future from your employer. I hate =
that crap.

I have the luxury of making stupid, shortsighted commitments to clients, =
realizing that the piano actually needs more work, and then just doing =
the additional work without charge because I should have known and it is =
the only way to make the piano right. I have this luxury because I work =
for myself. Such a luxury does not often exist when working at a dealer =
(or something of that sort).
=20
Someone else made a post suggesting that you do the repair as dictated =
by your employer, but to make a clear record of which flanges you =
glued/screwed, etc. That is probably good advice. Do as good a repair as =
possible without getting your boss on your back. While at the same time, =
think seriously about looking for another job (if this type of approach =
is common-place) or setting out on your own.

I could NEVER work for anyone else EVER again (except of course for my =
piano clients!!! - I love 'em!!!). ARG!!!

Hey, I grew up in St. Clair Shores. Where are you in the Detroit/Windsor =
area?
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Clark Sprague=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 5:01 PM
  Subject: Sohmer Grand


  List:  I have been assigned to "recondition" for sale a Sohmer Grand, =
serial #30613,  a 5'10" specimen.  I pulled the action, and noticed =
damper flanges wobbly.  Noticed that they are glued in to the damper =
tray, and 4 have come loose.
      They don't want me to do much to it except make it work, just sell =
it pretty much like it is.  Should I remove the dampers, and drill holes =
to screw the flanges in?  Any thoughts, because I know that if 4 are =
loose now, when it is sold, I will be the one to go to the customers =
house to glue more in when they come loose.
      Also, I noticed that the pin block holes (from underneath) are not =
drilled all the way through the block, except in the mid section, where =
you can feel the dimples where the drill bit came close to going =
through.  Is this a normal thing, or has some other tech tried to =
partially rebuild this, and didn't do it right?  Should they always be =
drilled through the bottom of the block?
      Clark Sprague
      Associate Member
      Detroit\Windsor

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