Bass bearing bar

[David Love]

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Thanks Jon.  But why not set the pins before gluing the bar back in =
place avoiding the glue problems and the side-of-the-case-in-the-way =
problem.  Actually, the pins have not migrated on this bar so I will =
create a mylar pattern for the pin position and index it to the tuning =
pins before taking off the bearing bar.  I think I will make it out of =
pin block material though, a few people made that suggestion and it =
makes sense of course. =20

On another subject, are you installing soundboards?  Are you making your =
own or buying precrowned.  If so, who are you getting them from.  I'm =
about to embark on soundboard replacement learning curve but have no =
desire to start building them from scratch. =20

David Love


  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Jon Page=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: February 23, 2002 3:47 AM
  Subject: Re: Bass bearing bar


  At 06:16 PM 2/22/2002 -0800, you wrote:

    I have to remake a wooden bass bearing bar for an old upright =
(tuning pin side).  What is the correct angle that the grain should run? =
 Seems straight forward on appearance, any comments?
    =20
    =20
    David Love

  I made one from a scrap of pin block stock and stained it dark.

  Since the old one was split, there was no indexing the pins from that =
one.
  All I could gather from it was length, width and height.

  With the bar removed, the old pin holes and torn wood can be filled =
with epoxy.
  Scrape/sand this surface smooth to seat the new cap.

  Once the new piece was fashioned and before the bevels are cut, place =
it in the piano,
  indexing it with bridge pins.

  Here's the tricky part:to locate the pins, replace the action and run =
a thread from
  the bridge pin through the string cut in the hammer and mark it on the =
bearing bar.
  After all the strings were marked, use a drafting divider to even =
things off.

  First, measure the distance between the first and last single string =
pins and divide
  by the number of strings (or spaces - too early to remember).  Set the =
divider to that number
  and verify if it is good, if not, readjust the span on the divider and =
recheck. Once you come out
  even you can index the pins.

  Do the same on the double strings by measuring the distance between =
the left strings of the ends.
  Map out the left string order, then average the distance for the right =
string and index them off
  the divided left strings.  Whew.

  Remove the counter bearing bar and drill the holes on a drill press =
but do not go all the way through.
  When you epoxy it on, you don't want epoxy oozing up into the holes. =
Bevel the cap now.

  Install the bar indexing it with the bridge pins. I used my sound =
board press to apply pressure.
  Once set, drill the holes deeper for the pins. The lower singles =
should be a shallow angle unless you
  have the side of the case off. Stain, a few coats of shellac, install =
pins. Replace strings.

  Hope this helps,



  Regards,


  Jon Page,   piano technician
  Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
  mailto:jonpage@attbi.com
  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=20

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