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In a message dated 02/28/2002 8:27:48 AM Central Standard Time,
tune4@earthlink.net writes:
> Bill
> I've used straight edges over the years because they always show me the
> direct height relationship of adjacent keys. My current one is a piece of
> the lightest aluminum angle I can find, one side straightened and the other
> crowned. Previous recent posts describe the technique I use with double
> punchings as gauges as described by another subscriber to this list. The
> side of the angle that best suits the job is selected. Rarely are more than
> 2 passes required. I prefer key weights to hold down the back of the keys.
> After leveling is finished, key dip is easily checked and corrected. Let
> me know if you need more details.
>
> Paul Chick
>
Bill, Paul, I have mentioned this before on the list but it works so well for
me it bears mentioning again. I am not sure who to give credit for the idea
but you can make a feeler gauge out of balance rail punchings. Two 3's, two
5's, two 7's and so on, glue two 3's together (only overlapping 1/2) then
glue two 5's and glue them to the 3's (same 1/2 overlap) continue to thickest
punchings. I then glue the row to a popsicle stick and there is your feeler
gauge.
I looks like this OOOOOOO======. If need be I can send a picture.
Slide your gauge between a straight edge and the key and if it fits where the
two 5's are overlapped but not where the 5 and 7 are overlapping you will use
a 5 !
I like to level with the stack on in the piano, using tape along the front of
the keyframe to mark the size punching I need. I also compress my punchings
with a drilled dowel in the same manner that Joe Garrett described in this
months Journals TT&T section.
I find this method fast and accurate.
David Koelzer
Vintage Pianos
1702 Doubletree Dr.
Mesquite, Tx 75149
214-549-3872
vintagepianos@attbi.com
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