Key Leveling Devices

Kdivad@AOL.COM Kdivad@AOL.COM
Thu, 28 Feb 2002 11:15:08 EST


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In a message dated 02/28/2002 8:27:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
tune4@earthlink.net writes:


> Bill
> I've used straight edges over the years because they always show me the 
> direct height relationship of adjacent keys.  My current one is a piece of 
> the lightest aluminum angle I can find, one side straightened and the other 
> crowned. Previous recent posts describe the technique I use with double 
> punchings as gauges as described by another subscriber to this list.  The 
> side of the angle that best suits the job is selected. Rarely are more than 
> 2 passes required.  I prefer key weights to hold down the back of the keys. 
>  After leveling is finished, key dip is easily checked and corrected.  Let 
> me know if you need more details.
>  
> Paul Chick
> 

Bill, Paul, I have mentioned this before on the list but it works so well for 
me it bears mentioning again.  I am not sure who to give credit for the idea 
but you can make a feeler gauge out of balance rail punchings. Two 3's, two 
5's, two 7's and so on, glue two 3's together (only overlapping 1/2) then 
glue two 5's and glue them to the 3's (same 1/2 overlap) continue to thickest 
punchings.  I then glue the row to a popsicle stick and there is your feeler 
gauge.  
I looks like this OOOOOOO======.  If need be I can send a picture.
                       
Slide your gauge between a straight edge and the key and if it fits where the 
two 5's are overlapped but not where the 5 and 7 are overlapping you will use 
a 5 !

I like to level with the stack on in the piano, using tape along the front of 
the keyframe to mark the size punching I need.  I also compress my punchings 
with a drilled dowel in the same manner that Joe Garrett described in this 
months Journals TT&T section.

I find this method fast and accurate. 


David Koelzer
Vintage Pianos
1702 Doubletree Dr.
Mesquite, Tx 75149
214-549-3872
vintagepianos@attbi.com     

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