Piano Lac Finish

[Erwinspiano@aol.com]

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In a message dated 10/16/2002 11:38:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
bases-loaded@juno.com writes:


> Subj:Re: Piano Lac Finish 
> Date:10/16/2002 11:38:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time
> From:<A HREF="mailto:bases-loaded@juno.com">bases-loaded@juno.com</A>
> Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>
> To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>
> Sent from the Internet 
> 

                 Mark
 Thank you so much for this description. It was imenseley helpful.
         I just finished another mahogony sample board this am. Although it 
still had some open grain from spraying to heavy it came out fairly well 
untill I got to the final rubout. With nitro cell we sand the final gloss 
coats with 600 wet then finish with steel wool and polish for a semi but 
glossyier than semi gloss appearance . We get a very translucent finish 
starting out with a water dye. But when trying a similar rubout on the water 
base gloss the end result is not as clear but kind of hazy. It's much better 
than when we first started. Mr. Gutlo sent me a mahogony piece nicely 
polished  and the clarity is stunning but I don't wish to do polished 
finnishes. So my question is what kind of rubout are you doing. How's the 
clarity? Whats the process? I'll can't except anything muddy / hazy looking 
myself.
   By the way what product are you using????????
    Thanks again. Still grinding away in Modesto>>>>Dale Erwin

> 
> .
> Hi Thump -
> 
> (To be clear, in the following reply I am not referring to Pianolac
> specifically, a finish I have never tried, but rather to water-based
> lacquer in general, and I HAVE used quite a few of them.)
> 
> Like riding a bike, I think you could read forever on the subject of
> spraying and only gain insight by experience alone.  I think Dale's
> experience illustrates what I was referring to rather succinctly.  "Stuff
> just happens", and even more so when you are coming to something for the
> first time.  In addition, the chemistry of the Water-based materials make
> them a bit of an odd critter to spray if one has spent years spraying
> solvent-based, making the application seem counter-intuitive in many
> ways.  Basically most of it comes down to more control over your
> technique with the gun, and attention to proper atomization of the
> product.  I think the stuff is considerably less forgiving that way than
> nitro, and only part of that is due to the high solids content of the
> material.  Put another way, I guess you could say it is a more complex
> finish.  "Spraying water-based 101" would be a class solely devoted to
> not only learning how much material to apply in a pass, but would include
> learning to know what it "looks like" on the surface when wet.  Your
> experience from nitro tells you there is not nearly enough material on
> there because it looks uneven, with craters and orange peel waiting to
> rear their ugly heads.  The leveling takes place in a coalescing fashion
> dissimilar from nitro, so it can be visually disconcerting. 
> Consequently, there is a tendency to apply either too little or too much
> in compensation until you have had enough hands-on experience to tell you
> otherwise.  Only by familiarizing yourself with the product by use would
> you have any hope of becoming efficient with it, but to me it was well
> worth the effort.  I have very few unpleasant surprises these days, and
> certainly no more than one would have applying any finish.
> 
> Mark Potter
> bases-loaded


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