This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Terry, Regarding "re"-locating the holes on an open faced block: I've used = Mylar. What a pain in the butt that stuff is! Yes it's accurate and = dimensionally stable, but it's a pain to use, (fitting in/around = obstacles, etc.). I prefer the paper pattern. I prefer Butcher paper; = the kind that has a plastic backing and is white. That way if there are = things to correct, you can draw on the pattern, etc. Once I've got the = paper pattern, I check to see if all the pin rows are in a straight = line, vertically, Horizontally and especially Diagonally. If there were = little foibles, the diagonal will tell you. <G> One area, that this, = sometimes, does not applyto, is right at the "break" area of tenor to = bass. A lot of times the designer tended to "crowd" the string pattern = in that area. One other thing, I've learned is: before removing the = strings, check to see if there are strings that are riding on other = tuning pins, etc. take good notes and you shouldn't have too much of a = problem. Also, it is best to have a good Drilling Fixture, that will not = allow the drill bit to "wonder". I recall yours, so you shouldn't have = too much trouble there, either. I'd use a short bit to cut down on the = bit flex. Hope that help's Joe Garrett, R.P.T. Captain, Tool Police Squares R I ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/e2/e6/d9/90/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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