Bandsaw Veneer Cutting

[Overs Pianos]

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Hi all,

At 7:13 PM -0500 14/1/04, Terry Farrell wrote:
>Thanks Greg, but how do you go about cutting an exactly 1.0 mm thick
>veneer - not 1.1 mm, not 0.9 mm, but 1.0 mm? My saw is the first bandsaw I
>ever cut a stick on, so I'm sure there are some basic techniques that I am
>simply ignorant of.
>
>Terry Farrell

Terry, the problem of minimising wastage when resawing is common. You 
won't get within 0.1 mm accuracy with a bandsaw, but if its properly 
set up it is possible to get a moderately smooth cut surface off the 
saw.

However, in my experience new blades never run true on the saw when 
first installed. Even the figure eight packing of the blade during 
delivery is sufficient to cause a wondering blade. Before using a new 
blade it is well worth spending half a hour with a straight edge, a 
small hammer and a trued and straight block of soft wood to pene the 
blade straight.

With the blade at cutting tension advance the blade by hand a few 
inches at a time, while at each point checking the lie of the blade 
between the upper guide system and the table. You will find the the 
blade doesn't lie in a straight line all the way around when you 
check it with a straight edge. With the soft wood block supporting 
the blade on the concave side I gently work the blade around the 
centre of the bow. This procedure is continued until I get right 
around the blade. If the blade has the teeth accurately set (and the 
blade joint is straight), you won't believe the improvement after 
straightening the blade. The blades I use are Simons Red Streak 2" 
wide with a 35 thou back, a 20 thou tooth set with a 1' pitch. Its 
really a bit small for resawing deep boards (max depth under the 
guide is 14")  but its all I can afford at the present time until we 
get a few more pianos out. If these blades travelled absolutely 
straight and didn't vibrate they would cut with a width of 75 thou. 
If I put a new blade on and try it without straightening it, it will 
often cut a width of 120 thou. After straightening it will typically 
cut 85 to 95 thou (around 2.5 mm).

I have also found that the feed rate is critically important the 
quality of cut. If the feed rate is too slow the blade will vibrate 
and cause a lot a of wastage, while too fast a rate will cause the 
blade to wonder off line.

On the work front we're currently re-boarding a 1962 Hamburg Steinway 
D (the original board had a reverse crown in front of the bridge in 
the killer octave) and a Kawai KG5 at the same time as we're building 
our own piano no. 5. The D is getting a laminated bass corner 
cutt-off, an extra back beam to replace the bell, and an additional 
new cut-off area in the treble. I'm planning to take images for the 
web site soon once I get the cut-offs glued in place. Tomorrow I'm 
feathering the ribs on no. 5's board, so it will likely be the 
weekend before I get around to taking images of the D. I'm quite 
looking forward to hearing this reworked D, since the client has 
given us a brief to incorporate our new sound board design as well.

Best,
Ron O.
-- 
OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY
    Grand Piano Manufacturers
_______________________

Web http://overspianos.com.au
mailto:info@overspianos.com.au
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